Von Furstenberg Unwraps for Spring

Most fashion designers spend their careers searching for the look that will make their fortune. Diane von Furstenberg found hers in 1976, and has spent a good deal of the time since trying to break free of it.

The Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress, in slinky jersey and in endless colours and patterns, has become an instantly recognisable fashion icon, in the mould of the Chanel boucle jacket. It is worn by everyone from Cherie Blair to Jade Jagger. And yet each New York fashion week Von Furstenberg presents a catwalk show in which the wrap dress makes just a few token appearances. Although she could most certainly retire on the profits from her hit frock, she is determined not to be seen as a one-trick pony.

The first piece of clothing the audience was presented with was an ordinary white cotton vest emblazoned with the slogan "Vote" - one was wrapped and beribboned on each seat, as Von Furstenberg's gift and message to the assembled company.

Then, after the traditional half-hour wait, came a silken spaghetti strap dress in green-tinged leopard print and, shortly after, a strapless bustier in white cable knit and a selection of flimsy tops which looked to be made from knotted silk scarves.

A jet-setter's palette of ideas followed: a beaded flapper-style dress in African colours, a bright pink sun dress with a Greek key motif, and a kaftan printed with the colours of a tropical sunset.

Strapless shapes dominated, with the wrap dress relegated to a supporting role, its most notable appearance in the form of a white shirt dress with pockets and collars, with the wrap belt taking the form of a starchy bow at the back.

Von Furstenberg shared her accolades with her design partner, Nathan Jenden.