Italy: Pantelleria

Known as the Black Pearl of the Sun, Pantelleria, an island southwest of Sicily, has preserved the slow pace beloved by its ancestors.
As a testament to ancient customs, the island remains virtually untouched by tourism, despite its recent discovery as a getaway by luminaries like Giorgio Armani and Madonna. Only about ten hotels, none of them approaching the grandeur of urban Italian resorts, dot Pantelleria, and its cafés and clubs are equally low-key. Although you can walk anywhere you need to go, it’s worth renting a car just to drive on the scenic road that runs along the steep sea cliffs.

The multi-hued waters swirling around Pantelleria represent just one manifestation of the island’s unique landscape. Rocky cliffs and hot springs characterize the geography, so if you’re looking for sandy beaches, you’ll be disappointed; the craggy terrain features coves and inlets to swim in instead. A good way to explore the storied marine grottoes of Pantelleria is by chartering a boat and going scuba diving with local guides who relate the caves’ myths and legends.

Due to its location between Europe and Africa, Pantelleria bears the impress of several different cultures, among them Phoenician, Roman, and Arabic. This last group introduced the distinctive Pantellerian houses called dammusi; built out of stacked volcanic rocks, they still pop up in the fishing village Gadir, though owners now commonly refurbish them to reflect modern styles and comfort. One in particular has become an excellent restaurant called I Mulini (The Windmills), and provides the perfect setting for sampling Pantelleria’s zesty native cuisine. For a fine end to an exquisite meal, once can do no better than to walk up to Monte Grande, the summit of Pantelleria, to take in the jewel-like colors of the landscape below.

By Buzzle Staff and Agencies
Published: 8/24/2002
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