The Wadis of Hadhramaut

Sunset bathed the acacia-studded wadi with a peach colored light as we jostled down a sandy track towards the village where we had been invited for supper.

Legend maintains that Hadramaut`s history begins with the Flood and that once upon the time, the area was inhabited by giants. Today, the area, together with the south coast and Aden, constitutes one of the great and extraordinary regions of Yemen. It covers an extensive area of varied landscape, from the coastlands of the Indian Ocean, through a complex series of valleys, to the southern edge of the Rub AlKhali desert. It includes a massive and magnificent wadi system, probably one of the largest in the Arabian Peninsula, which runs for about 160 km west to east with numerous tributary valleys, such as Wadi Doan, Amd, AlAin, Sark, Bin Ali, and Idm, and an easterly extension into the less fertile Wadi Masila.

Due to elaborate irrigation systems, the land is covered with green vegetation, groves and trees. Irrigation both by control of the twice yearly seasonal floods and, especially, from wells, is carefully managed. Vast areas of date-palm trees grow alongside wheat, vegetables, dates and tobacco. The Hadhramis live in densely built towns along the traditional watering stations of the wadis. Here they harvest crops of wheat, millet, tend dates and coconut groves, and grow some coffee.

The Hadhrami architectural history represents a dialogue between cultures both within and outside. Yemen`s diverse built environment has remained vibrant in the face of recent transitions. But as Yemen and with it Hadhramaut is further incorporated into regional and global economic patterns, many of its traditional occupations, materials and architectural forms are being abandoned.

Hadhramaut, also Hadramawt, a region of the south Arabia, extends eastwards from Yemen to the Dhofar region of Oman. It consists of a narrow, arid coastal plain bounded by the steep escarpment of a broad plateau, with a network of deeply sunk wadis, seasonal watercourses. The northern edge of Hadhramaut slopes down to the Rub AlKhali desert. The name "Hadhramaut" derives from Greek "hydreumata" or often fortified "watering stations" at wadis. A "hydreuma" is a manned and fortified watering hole or way station along a caravan route. The frankincense trees that supplied the "Incense Road" grew to the east of the Hadhramaut, in Dhofar. Isolated within their great wadis, Hadhramis have developed an unique, almost timeless culture, expressed in architectural styles, accentuating spaciousness and simple forms. The buildings fuse almost imperceptibly into the landscape. A sense of space, emptiness and a dramatic relationship of parts of buildings with the whole and of buildings with each other.

Historically, the Hadhramis have been great travelers, journeying extensively to the east coast of Africa, the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia to make their fortunes in trade and business.

Seiyun is the largest town of the Wadi Hadhramaut and the provincial capital. It is known for the fabulous palm groves that surround it and for its traditional market. It used to be an important stop over on the early trade route that ran east through Wadi Masila and on to Shihr on the coast. Some 35 km of Seiyun, encircled by palm groves, is Tarim, which takes its name from a local king, Tarim Ibn Hadramaut Ibn Saba Al-Assgur. Tarim used to be a major center for the Kathiti state until the 1960 and in ancient times, the capital of Hadramaut and religious capital in tenth century. Its history, like Shibam`s is related to the rise of the Kingdom of Himyar and destruction of Shabwa.

If you travel to Hadhramaut you should visit the two cities of Shibam and Seyun, cities of melodious talk, breathtaking poetry, and unique architectural masterpieces. It is here, that the Hadhrami poet and song writer Hussein AboBakr AlMehdar wrote

Say hello or wave it by hand
Oh, princess of my heart
Take me slave and hold me in your possession
As you passed by on the festival day
You dazzled the whole procession
He who saw your beauty praised God for his make.
Had your eye seen what mine saw of her beauty

And also "before you get too old to enjoy the scenery of the sweeties", AlMehdar dedicated his poetry and songs to the various towns and settlements so that the whole land remained united to the tune and rhythm of his music. He participated in the "daan seassions", an unique type of Hadhrami music, preserved rituals, and traditions. But his songs would have not acquired fame throughout Yemen and beyond without Abo Bakr Salem BalFaqih, also from Hadhramaut. AboBakr was to become one of the most distinguished artists in the Arab world taking the Hadhrami tune far beyond Yemen and the Peninsula. His magical voice and performances turned AlMehdar`s lyrics into a new world of musical experience, enjoyment and perfection.

Countless beautiful villages along both sides of the wadi, a seasonal river that fills with water in the rainy season. A spectacular view from the stone cliffs over the valley and the mud buildings of Al-Hajjarayn. Winding streets, they are little more than lanes. Walking down the lanes, smiling faces and sounds of music.

Wadi Du`an is one of the largest wadis of Hadhramaut. It is the longest valley, has the largest population. All its cities are built in traditional Hadhrami style. But whenever one hears the name Wadi Du`an, one immediately thinks of Du`ani honey, which is well known not just in Yemen, but beyond. There is no kind like in terms of quality, purity and delicious taste. Wadi Du'an is the place, where for generations of beekeepers have been perfecting their craft for at least a millennium. Combined with the dry climate and short flowering season of local plants, they produce what is probably the most expensive and sought-after honey in the world. The Wadi Du'an honey is renowned for its unique buttery flavor, rich aroma and high viscosity and for its medicinal qualities. As it is with friendship, the honey business here is based on trust.

We sat on the carpeted living-room floor, kept cool by the thick walls of the four-story, mud-brick building. Shuttered windows with decorative lattice screens overlooked an expanse of date groves and, farther off, small plots of farmland awaiting the seasonal rains. Cups of ginger coffee were poured and a plate of fresh dates is being offered. That night, we camped on the edge of a volcanic plateau overlooking Wadi Du'an. A full moon illuminated the villages far below and a lone vehicles lurched along distant tracks until well after midnight.

Our journey ends in Shibam, this amazing town full of charm, a perfume of history, sincerity of its inhabitants and – music.

WHAT TO SEE IN HADHRAMAUT
Kore AlMukalla, Ghowaizi fortress, Qasr AlHouta Palace hotel
Mukalla by night, Tibala hot springs, the historic city of Shibam
Wadi Du`an, Tarim, AlKatiri palace in Seyun, try "madhbi", the traditional way of eating meat, taste Du`ani honey, watch dolphins

The Hadhrami port city Mukalla has been hosting the Baldah Festival of Tourism, starting 14th July, 2006 for two weeks. The festival aims to promote reach cultural heritage and traditions of Hadhramaut.