The Ritual Behind the Ritual

Before Monday’s conclave begins to decide the next pope, Filippo Gammarelli will deliver three vestments of varying sizes to the Vatican in hopes of closely matching the size of the next pontiff. Because no one knows who the next pope will be, the master tailor offers what could be likened to a small, medium, and large version of the garment. After the delivery is made, Gammarelli and his team of artisans wait patiently for the new pope to be introduced in one of the flowing white vestments that they have created. Prior to the pope’s introduction to the world, any minor alterations are made by the nuns of the Vatican. Once the pope has been introduced to the world, Gammarelli’s will officially fit him and begin work on other traditional Catholic vestments.

Despite the fact that Gammarelli’s is a relatively small outfit, the tailors of his shop have been serving the highest members of the Vatican and the Roman Catholic Church since 1798. Location may be one of the biggest contributors to Gammarelli’s success, since they are located on a tiny cobblestone street just behind the Pantheon in Rome. But location alone cannot explain over 200 years of a nearly-exclusive relationship with one of the world’s most recognized customers – the Vatican. During the shop’s relationship with the Catholic Church, five pontificates have come and gone. As a new one is set to begin, there remains a slight angst about the prospect of losing their only customer. "If the new pope has his own tailor we would not be able to serve this pontificate. We pray that won't be," Gammarelli said, only half-jokingly.

Because of their well-established relationship with the Vatican and the upcoming conclave, Gammarelli has seen a spike in visitors to his shop. Most notable among them are the countless cardinals, bishops, priests, and other Catholic clergy that are in Rome for the conclave. Many are anxious to explore the offerings of the tailor that serves the Vatican and some are placing orders of their own as well. Some English bishops have purchased shoes and a U.S. archbishop recently stopped in for a fitting. Traditional Catholic garments are not inexpensive, with a cardinal’s red biretta hat going for roughly 45 dollars, or 35 euros. "I cannot tell you whether it is the best as I would need to compare all the papal tailors, but it is the most prestigious," said Bishop Mathieu Madega Lebouankehan of Gabon's Port Gentil.

When asked why his shop only serves the upper tier of the Roman Catholic Church, Filippo Gammarelli explains simply that diversifying their offerings would inevitably hurt the world-renowned quality of their garments. Gammarelli’s is simply not ready to consider that option. And with a new pontificate on the horizon, they may not have to address that issue for quite some time.