Time warp Roaring 20s look like the 80s

Fashion designers have a notoriously fluid concept of time: this is, after all, an industry in which statements such as "the 60s are so now" are accepted in all solemnity. It is not surprising then that despite aiming for "the roaring 20s", as the show release said, yesterday's Emporio Armani autumn/ winter show was more reminiscent of the 80s. Only in fashion could one decade be mistaken for another.

All of the trappings of the 1920s were there - miniskirts and short dresses, little beanie caps, diamante detailing - but it was all topped with details more appropriate to Wall Street the film, than the Wall Street Crash. Metallic sheen coats were rolled at the wrist, jackets cropped and boxy, and rhinestones - a rock last seen in a Debbie Gibson video - appeared on dress trims, buckles, boots and bags.

Emporio Armani, the diffusion branch aimed at the younger customer, can be too experimental for its own good. But this, despite the 80s bent, was a decidedly commercial collection.

There was a seemingly endless selection of black chiffon cocktail dresses and swishy black skirts twinned with simple black jackets, any of which a pretty young thing could wear to dinner with her parents. As in the Anna Molinari show, the empire waist dress also got its moment. The little colour there was came from a vibrant and oversized poppy print splashed across bags, shoes, dresses and tops (if it is worth doing something once in Emporio, it is worth doing 50 times), and will no doubt find a home with Armani's older clientele.

The more successful pieces showed off Armani's tailoring without forgetting that Emporio is more for the masses.

Items such as a belted A-line black satin coat was particularly good, as were sequinned evening dresses in black and lavender, decked with sparkles and tied snugly at the waist. Perfect for the prom night in an 80s bratpack film.