Autumn Comes Early in Milan

It was on a particularly grey and drizzly day that two of Milan’s younger labels, Sportmax and Dsquared, attempted to cheer up a grumpy press. Both labels make daywear aimed at a younger audience, but with two quite different approaches.

First up was Sportmax, the diffusion line of Maxmara, whose slick, post-punk look was well received this week. Sportmax is usually less serious than its elder sister, but unfortunately not this time. The catwalk was covered in leaves and grass - meant to evoke Flemish woods, although its more immediate effect was to dissuade the front row from putting their £1,000 bags down.

The models stomped on wearing oversized jumpers layered over leggings, plaid mohair capes and fake fringes attached to their hair. PVC trapper hats with leopard-print lining finished off the look. Most successful were the oversized nylon bomber jackets and hooded parkas which have been sighted elsewhere this week. The show nodded to the punk style which is emerging for next winter, but this sulky look doesn’t particularly suit the label.

Things were certainly more upbeat at Dsquared, which is designed by Canadian twins Bean and Stan Caten. Again the catwalk was covered in grass, but this time it was synthetic with a red carpet on top, fitting for a label known for its camp, theatrical presentations.

The curtains were drawn back to reveal the facade of a stately home. Down the sweeping steps came riding hats and cropped equestrian jackets worn with white denim jodhpurs, and tartan trench coats with sporrans.

For the most part, outfits were styled with denim - hardly surprising as the label has a deal with Renzo Rosso, who also owns the fashion denim brand Diesel. This has proved to be a smart relationship, as turnover has jumped from €3.5m (£2.4m) to €50m in just two years. The show might have had a touch of "carry on country house" about it, but there is no doubt that this brand has a head for serious business too.