Walking In The Cloud On Razih Mountain In Yemen

Located in the north western part of Yemeni northern Sadah Governorate, the peace of the idyllic countryside was broken by the roar of dozer, scrapers, dumpers and tractors. A new, wide paved road, the "Razih ring-round" is in making.

The way of man
Thousand feet of the ground the haze lifted as we headed for the Razih mountain. Gradually the sand areas thinned out and there were just darkish – gray jagged mountain. The mountain, from this altitude, took on a faint green tint, almost resembling mould. Below a moonscape. From the brightly pained mud and brick of the lower valleys, the homes here changed into gray stone construction. A few tiny village clung precariously to the mountainside here and there.

Villages and everywhere, laboriously terraced hills. Farming here is a perpetual contest between man and nature. The sun was still shining but black clouds threatened on the horizon as we stepped into cool, crisp air. Old and the new, sometimes the extremes of both, little farm plots, old forts and castles, new houses, new cars, donkeys turning up narrow alleys between the picturesque, fortress – like traditional homes. The scene of wild and rugged as we enter another world from the cool air of the mountain. At the top of this beautiful mountains world, the air got colder still. The remote villages sat on the flank of the mountain like a big stone fortress.

The edge of the ridge of Jibal Razih dropped abruptly several thousand feet into wild canyons leading down through the coastal desert to the Red Sea. Green grass, a cool, clear brook, wild flowers, spiced with the fresh smell of spring. A country lane wound its way up and down gentle slopes, past lush fields of wheat, barley, tomatoes, onions and alfalfa. Peach, apple and plum trees were in the pinkest bloom. Razih farmers tilling their fields, plowing, pulling weeds. Every village has a different character, literally a different color all beautiful and well cared for. Someone would come over and invite us in for coffee, and if we wished, a meal.

Razih – a mountain dreamland
It is isolation, and abundance of rainfall, that makes Razih so distinctive. Terraced farming, craggy mountain peaks, tall trees and luxuriant coffee plantations. Agriculture here requires little or no irrigation. It is assumed that most parts of the Razih mountain get at least 12 inches of rain a year. Farming is laid out in broad terraces, some 200 to 300 feet wide, astride the hilly contours of the land. Cereal crops, wheat, barley and millet – dominate commercial agricultural production. Fruits, apricots, figs, apples, pears, are plentiful.

Razih development started fairly recently. The whole area had changed much and it will continue to change at an ever –faster pace. The completion of Razih road and provision of electricity are two ongoing project of major importance for Razih. Other efforts go into basic improvements such as water and road programs. Education and health are high priorities. Agricultural advances could be among the most innovative and most dramatic. Change must be slow enough o insure that it is for the better. Change which comes as fast can be overwhelming, even frightening. Local leaders have little experience of promoting their community needs to the world, let along managing the implementation. May be what is needed is a forum where people and companies can link with individual needs for schools and hospitals to which they can contribute not just funding but also advice, information and even hard labor. Internet could be such a medium.

The road will help a great deal the tourism potential. Mountain worlds like Razih could be an show case for self sustainable tourism, aimed at people who are seeking different experiences and are conscious of the importance of social responsibility and environmental integrity. And who wish to experience from a new and different perspective and see the creative solution that are being implemented. Such tours could be done with informed tour coordinators, who will help tourists to contextualize the social situations in order to better understand the culture.

This highland region supports one of the heaviest concentrations of population Providing modern services to isolated communities in developing countries under conditions that assure the projects are both affordable and commercially viable remains, an unsolved challenge. The "bundled service" program, for example offers another alternative, by enhancing the electrical service with telecomm and internet access, the projects increase economic opportunities and raise the productive capacity of communities. Utilizing breakthroughs in wireless internet, providing off-grid electricity, telecomm and wireless internet service simultaneously promise that communities will develop productive activities that raise income levels faster than extra services drive up project costs.

Meadows and wild flowers shrouded in the mist. Castles in the air, the smell of time and the art of being. These are changing times...

Article has been written for Yemen Observer