Designer Takes on a Hunting Theme

It is doubtful if Roberto Cavalli has ever had a fretful moment worrying about questions of good taste. Cavalli is a man who would probably look at one of Princes William and Harry's Natives and Colonial parties (rare swastika appearance aside) and proclaim that the fashion all seemed in the best possible taste but perhaps there should be more animal prints.

And seeing as the inspiration for yesterday's show was proclaimed to be "aristocrats for whom the hunt is a way of life", it seemed as though the young Windsors would be the Cavalli theme.

Surprisingly, though, this was a relatively sombre show. Only with Cavalli would a collection featuring python trousers dyed red, giant fur coats with crocodile skin piping and jeans with more studs than a male fashion show be called "sombre".

Nevertheless, Cavalli curtailed his usual excesses, restricting the colours primarily to black and dark red. And, unexpectedly, his excesses were missed: if you're going to go for bad taste, you may as well go headfirst into the abyss and embrace your market - and Cavalli certainly has his very loyal market of Euro-hopping men and women for whom ostentation is the raison d'etre.

There were some fun, subtle touches, such as the crocodile piping on the tuxedo trousers. But it felt as if Cavalli was holding himself back; yes, there was a sensible pinstripe suit, but the pinstripes shimmered like rhinestones.

But the low points came from garments surely only a Sloane Ranger or a Europudding pop singer would enjoy: studded and embroidered jeans, aviator shades and - the outfit beloved by England's pro-hunting set - faded jeans with a pinstripe jacket. Maybe the Windsor boys were still the inspiration, after all.

Trend watch

What to look out for in the shops for autumn and winter 2005: driving gloves.

Rarely seen since power steering was invented, but now resurrected on the catwalks for probably less practical purposes.

At Jil Sander the driving gloves were perhaps the most interesting part of an otherwise lacklustre collection, which should give you an idea of how lacklustre it was.

Versace used them in black to make their black biker outfits look even that bit more menacing.

Burberry had the best ones. Dyed bright green or dusky lavender, they peeked out of grey tweed coats for a bit of colour.