Stop-off in Salta During an Argentina Vacation

Often overlooked by visitors who prefer to spend the majority of their Argentina travel time in the more frequented regions of Buenos Aires, Iguazu and Patagonia - Salta is in fact well worth the effort.

This wild region is characterized by the diversity of its landscape, where travelers will see everything from fertile forests to vast salt flats, awe-inspiring rock formations and brilliant blue skies. The

capital city of the Salta region is similarly attractive, where the vibrancy of its people compliments the aesthetic appeal of its colonial-era architecture. Lovingly dubbed Salta the Fair (Salta la Linda) by Argentine nationals, the city is a charismatic blend of modern comforts, cosmopolitan locals and picture-perfect architecture, parks and plazas.

Fortunately, Salta has not yet been heavily altered by the influx of foreign visitors, and maintains its north western charm.

Friday
What better way to do as locals do, than a mouth-watering and typical Salteño lunch in historical and cultural heart of the city. Doña Salta, serving nationally acclaimed cuisine, is just steps away from the magnificent Iglesia San Francisco; adding to the authenticity of the experience. Dishing up an array of delicious Argentine and regional dishes such as pork and pumpkin locro, wood fire oven-cooked empanadas, and savory humitas and tamales, the locale is a favorite among locals and travelers alike, and therefore is an excellent spot from which to begin your Salta vacation experience.

After enjoying this hearty meal, take an easy stroll along Calle Codoba and Caseros until you reach the shady Plaza 9 de Julio. This small yet pleasant square boasts numerous memorial statues and aromatic orange trees, and lining its borders are cozy cafes and historically important buildings. Not surprisingly, this plaza is a principle location for a great number of city sponsored social and cultural events. From here, you are just a stones throw from the splendid Museum of High Altitude Archeology (MAAM). This elegant, coral-colored colonial building houses many regional finds worth a visit, but by far the most intriguing is the spectacular 1999 discovery: 3 mummified Inca children and 146 associated artifacts. These "Llullaillaco Children" are one of the most important regional findings in recent times and represent an invaluable opportunity to learn more about a culture that is still alive today.

After an enlightening visit to the museum, take some time to peruse the artisans’ shops and art galleries in the area. Fine examples of local artists are for sale here, including such regionally inspired creations as tiny painted dolls, mobiles made of wood and stone, vivid weavings and hand-painted wall hangings, as well as the traditional landscape and portrait canvasses. Street-side cafes will tempt you to take a moment and enjoy a piping hot coffee and chocolate-smothered alfajor. After replenishing your energies take a ride up to the summit of Cerro San Bernadino, via the teleferico (Avenida San Martin y H. Yrigoyen). From these great heights you will be rewarded with sweeping views of the city and the en masse appearance of glittering lights as the day draws to a close.

A marvelous way to end the day is at the much-loved La Casona del Molino. This aging colonial mansion constructed in 1671 is one of the best places to spend a lively night out in Salta. This traditional peña - live music show - is frequented by a varied crowd and oozes a festive vibe not to be missed. Dine on succulent Argentine steak and top notch red wine whilst sitting on the atmospheric veranda. Satisfied, head out from here or stick around for the inspiring zamba show - Salta’s take on the samba.

Saturday
Although hearty breakfasts are not a typically Argentinean way to start the day, some very enticing meals are offered by the many cafes bordering the Plaza 9 de Julio. Excellent espresso coffee done just how you like is available at virtually all eateries, as are fruit smoothies and cheese-filled tostadas.

If you’ve got a spare hour grab some fresh fruit from one of the many kiosks around the city and jump on a bus that’s heading out to San Lorenzo, one of the city’s more privileged districts and where you can admire row after row of sparkling white, ivy-covered mansions from the colonial era. This leafy neighborhood also boasts a well-maintained public park and restaurant, where you can sit and contemplate this tranquil spot.

From here you can start off walking along on a 2-mile mountain trail through the verdant Quebrada de San Lorenzo. Alternatively, at the entrance you can ask the park ranger about guided horseback rides offered by local families. Both are a wonderful way to explore the gorge and take in the spectacular scenery. The trail follows a deliciously cold stream, which is also perfect for soaking tired feet. Spend as long as you like in this natural area, and rest assured that a hearty meal awaits you at El Duende: a creek-side favorite amongst locals and tourists in the know. The three-story venue serves pasta, the ubiquitous Argentine steak or simply delightful sandwiches, and is placed picturesquely alongside the brook upon a grassy lawn.

After such an active day you are sure to want to indulge in some fine dining and simply relax, and what better way do this than pop into one of Salta’s most popular and talked about restaurants: José Balcarce. This elegant establishment prides itself on serving up high quality, creative takes on traditional Andean staples, and has begun making a name for itself on the local gastronomic scene. Ingredients are always fresh, seasonal, and grown locally in agricultural communities such as Tilcara and Humahuaca. Diners are encouraged to try the llama steak; topped with creamy quinoa and served with a side of fresh asparagus and Andean potatoes.

Towards the end of the week Salteños unwind with a night of tango, at the open air milongas found on Paseo de las Poetas. This popular dance hall has no cover charge, and patrons can enjoy brilliant live music shows from about 7pm until midnight. If you have been blessed with two left feet do not despair - superb dancing classes can be taken at El Ático on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 7pm onwards.

Sunday
Begin the day by replenishing your energy with a freshly squeezed orange juice or steaming espresso on the bohemian Calle Balcarce. This strip of 8 blocks forms the backbone of the city’s artist community, and was recently rescued from disrepair and now serves as Salta’s beating cultural heart. It is also the city’s hippest nightlife spot, where character-filled converted mansions and contemporary venues abound.

If you are in Salta on a Sunday, do be sure to head to the Feria Artesanal de Balcarce, where more than 200 vendors gather weekly. This is not only a wonderful opportunity to witness a local tradition, but a fantastic chance to stock up on top notch gifts for friends and family (not to mention for yourself!) Everything from regional produce, Andean handicrafts and alpaca accessories can be found here. The organic market section is laden with grocery style products and ready to eat goodies, so don’t forget to stock up.

About the Author
This guide to spending the weekend in Salta was written by an Argentina travel expert at Argentina For Less, part of the Latin America For Less family.