Stirring up Beauty – the Fascinating Story of Sri Lankan Gemstones - 2/2

"I went down to Basra with a group of merchants and companions, and we set sail in a ship upon the sea,  and at first I was seasick because of the waves and the motion of the vessel, but soon I came to myself and we went about among the islands, buying and selling."

"… the narrow strip of rocky shore where we stood was strewn with the wreckage of a thousand gallant ships, while the hones of luckless mariners shone white in the sunshine, and we shuddered to think how soon our own would he added to the heap."

"All around too, lay vast quantities of the costliest merchandise, and treasures were heaped in every cranny of the rocks"….

The Tale of Sindbad the Sailor, from the 1001 Night

So Sindbad the Sailor described one of his many adventures on the Arabian Sea. Trade routes linking Europe with the "fabled East" ran through Arabia and the Persian Gulf. Ships landed at Arabian ports, and caravans, occasionally with thousands of camels, fanned out over Arabia heading north. The merchants of seacoast towns in Arabia grew so rich, that Greek and Roman historians observed that their doors, walls, and even the roofs of their houses were beautifully inlaid with "ivory, gold, silver, and precious stones from the land of Serendeeb (Ceylon)". 

Sri Lanka became one of the major trading destinations in the Indian Ocean, particularly for merchants from Arabia, Persia and the Ethiopian kingdom of Axum. Sri Lankan pearls, ivory and in particular - gemstones were famous and continued to be much sought after in Islamic times. Adam`s Peak in Sri Lanka was the landfall the Arab navigators looked for after leaving the Malabar coast. The Peak marked the island of Serendeeb, the largest and most magnificent of all the islands laying off India. Serendeeb, the name the Arabs gave to Ceylon or Sri Lanka, has given the English language the word serendipity, meaning the art of happy discovery. And a "happy discovery" it was.

Before the end of the 7th century, a colony of Muslim merchants had established themselves in Ceylon. Fascinated by the scenic splendor and captivated by the traditions associated with Adams Peak, Muslim merchants arrived in large numbers and some of them decided to settle in the island. Most of them lived along the coastal areas in peace and prosperity, maintaining contacts, both cultural and commercial, with Baghdad and other Islamic cities. The majority of Muslims were involved in business ventures.

To this day large quantities of precious stones are mined in Sri Lanka, and the manner in which they are mined may explain several aspects of Sindbad`s adventure. True diamonds do not occur in Sri Lanka, but almost every other precious and semi – precious stone is found – rubies, cat`s eyes, cornelians, and of course the famous blue sapphires. The island has been a major sources of gems for centuries, and these gems are found deep in the valleys, on the valley floors. The precious stones turn up in alluvial gravel and mud and gravel which has washed down form the mountains.

Today the gem dealers of Sri Lanka are nearly all Muslim and most of them claim Arab descent. They effectively control the production of gems, and have done so for as long as can be remembered. There is no firm date for when Arab merchants first began to trade in Serendeedb, but the Portuguese in the fifteenth century found Arabs firmly ensconced as the middlemen in trade, and the first Moslem shrines in Sri Lanka are said to date from as early as the seventh century. The oldest of these shrines are located on the south – east corner of Sri Lanka, precisely where ships were coming down for India.

Part Two of the interview with Dr. Shihaan Mohammed Larif, Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of InternetStones, a popular online media firm in Sri Lanka, dedicated to the development of the gem and jewelry industry today.

There has been a recent increase in the traffic to InternetSones website: some 10 Million hits per annum.

Q: Soon after settling in India, Muslim Arabs began arriving in the seventh  century to Sri Lanka. They established themselves in Beruwela and married Sinhala women. By the tenth century, they were a powerful merchant class. Who were the moat prominent Muslims, and what was their role in the history of Sri Lanka?
Dr. Shihaan: Sir Razik Fareed, Sir Mohammed Macan Markar and Ahmed Orabi were some of the most prominent members of the Muslim community of Sri Lanka. Let me detail:
 
Sir Razik Fareed (1893-1984) was a lawyer, philanthropist, diplomat and politician. He had served as the Minister of Trade, Senator, Member of Parliament and the State Council and also as Ceylon’s High Commissioner to Pakistan.  He was a founding member of the United National Party, that guided the destinies of the country for several decades.

Sir Razik Fareed gifted his own land in the capital city of Colombo to build the first Muslim Ladies College. The former principal of Zahira College, Colombo, Marhoom A.M.A. Azeez said, that Sir Razik Fareed would live in the history of our country as the 'Father of the Government Muslim School s.' 
 
Sir Mohammed Macan Markar was the founder of "O.L.M  Macan Markar and Co. Ltd" which was established in 1860. It was the most renowned gem export firm in the country during the British colonial period. It is the oldest gemstone and jewelry firm in Sri Lanka. Some of their former clients included His Majesty King Edward VII and his Majesty King George V. He was the consul-general for Turkey from 1903 to 1915. As Turkish consul he had visited Istanbul, Paris, Rome.

During a business visit to London in 1909, he was presented to His Majesty King Edward VII, at St. James’s Palace by Lord Crewe. Sir Mohammed gave Rs 50,000 for the construction of the University of Ceylon Campus at Peradeniya. He also made substantial financial endowments towards Muslim female education and for post graduate studies for Muslim students.
 
Ahmed Orabi (Colonel Orabi Pasha) was exiled from Egypt by the British colonial rulers to the then British colony of Ceylon, 126 years ago. He was the famous Egyptian nationalist and army leader. On January 10th 1883, Muslims of Sri Lanka gathered to welcome Orabi Pasha and six other exiles and their families when the SS  Mariots, a chartered British ship anchored at the Colombo harbour.
 
Orabi Pasha was described as a great patriot who inspired the Sri Lankan Muslims in all matters affecting their community, and gave them a separate national identity in Sri Lanka, while integrating them to the greater worldwide Muslim Umma. He was the first to show the importance of modern western education to the Muslim community in Sri Lanka, and was instrumental in getting the support of Muslim philanthropists to build the first modern Muslim School in Sri Lanka "Zahira College," Colombo. He was farsighted enough to integrate modern western education with traditional  Islamic education  in this school, in order to provide a more balanced education to the children.

Q: What is the role of the gem industry in Sri Lanka today?
Dr. Shihaan: Since ancient times the gem industry of Sri Lanka has contributed to the development of the country. The entire gem and jewelry industry of Sri Lanka employs about  650,000 people, including miners,  gem cutters, polishers, dealers, jewelry designers and craftsmen, marketers, sales personnel, and  gemologists.
 
The gem industry, for example, employs 325,000 miners, 72,000 gem cutters and 680 gem exporters. 25,000 men and women are also employed in the jewelry manufacturing industry of Sri Lanka. Recently, there has been a drop in the number of people employed in the industry, due to the global economic downturn.
 
Presently, Sri Lanka is the fastest growing gem-cutting and finishing center in the world. The gem industry produces stones that meet the highest international standards.
 
Sri Lanka has an economy of $ 27.4 billion. The gem and jewelry industry of Sri Lanka brings in about half a billion dollars per annum. Half of the income from the gem and jewelry industry comes from the diamond-cutting sector, even though Sri Lanka itself is not a diamond producing country but imports its rough diamonds.

Q: How is the gem industry in Sri Lanka organized?
Dr. Shihaan: The apex body that oversees the activities of the gem and jewelry industry in Sri Lanka is the National Gem and Jewelry Authority (NGJA).  The NGJA is also directly involved with the promotion of the gem and jewelry industry. The NGJA is a government parastatal which comes under the ministry of finance.
 
The NGJA was created by an act of parliament (Act No 50 of 1993). The National Gem and Jewelry Authority was established for the development, regulation and promotion of the gem and jewelry industry and to provide for the establishment of institutions to promote such development.
 
I can say with confidence, that the recent tremendous developments in the field  of gem and jewelry industry and trade in Sri Lanka is without any doubt attributable to the hard work and commitment of the National Gem and Jewelry Authority.
 
All exports of gemstones and jewelry have to be compulsorily channeled through the export division of the National Gem and Jewelry Authority. This arrangement ensures that only genuine gemstones and jewelry are exported from Sri Lanka which in turn boosts the profile of the country as a source of genuine gemstones and jewelry of very high quality.

Q: What teaching institutions are available and what is their role?
Dr. Shihaan: There are many government run and private training institutes for the gem and jewelry industry in Sri Lanka. The most notable ones include the Gem and Jewelry Research and Training Institute (GJRTI) and the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Sri Lanka (GJI).
 
The GJRTI was formed in 1995 to assisting in the development of the gem and jewelry industry. It also provides training and research for the regulation of the industry. The institute has two main offices, one in Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka and one at Ratnapura, the gem-mining center of Sri Lanka. Regional training centers of the institute are located at Galle, Kandy, Moneragala, Badulla, Eheliyagoda, Warakapola and Hasalaka.
 
The educational and research activities carried out by the GJRTI includes
carrying out surveys of gem minerals in Sri Lanka.
providing technical advice on the use of machinery for the development of the gem and jewelry industry.
providing technical advice in areas such as gem-cutting, mining, jewelry making and treatment of gemstones.
providing training in jewelry making, jewelry designing, gem cutting, gemology and enhancement of gem stones.
conducting workshops and seminars and publishing of books for the industry.
carrying out gemological research pertaining to location, identification and enhancement of gemstones.
 
Gem and Jewelry Institute of Sri Lanka (GJI)  is a vocational training institute in lapidary, jewelry design and manufacturing. The GJI was established after recommendation by Peter Raw, a consultant from the World Gold Council in 2000. One of the main objectives of the GJI is to encourage the young generation to consider a career in the gem and jewelry industry. The GJI can also train professionals who are already in the industry.
 
The GJI is assisted by many organizations. Some of these organizations include the National Gem and Jewelry Authority (NGJA) and the Sri Lanka Export Development Board (SLEDB), both of which are state agencies.  The USAID and the European Commission (EC) have also provided funds for technical assistance from the UK and USA. Courses offered by the GJI presently include lapidary training,  technical drawing, and electroplating and advanced jewelry stone setting.
 
Sri Lanka has signed a M.O.U with Pakistan to develop the gem and jewelry industry in Pakistan.  Several Pakistani trainees have completed a two-month training program from the GJI.

Q: What does it take to be a gem dealer?
Dr. Shihaan: In modern times you need to have a basic understanding of gemology in order to be a gem dealer. There are institutions in several countries that offer part time/ full time courses in basic gemology required for the trade. Apprenticeship, experience and business contacts with foreign buyers are very important to become a successful full time gem dealer. This explains why successful gem dealers run in families.
 
Basic equipment that is needed by the gem dealer which can be used in the field as well as in the office, include an electronic weighing scale, X10 hand lens (jeweler’s loupe) and a portable refractometer. The use of heavy liquids to determine the specific gravity of rough or cut and polished gemstones is one of the most important tests that can be carried out in the field while purchasing rough gemstones.

Useful site:
InternetStones: Famous Gemstones and Pearls of the World: http://www.internetstones.com/

Q: What is a gem buying safari?
Dr. Shihaan: Basically a gem buying safari is an adventure to gem mining areas in order to purchase gemstones from miners and local dealers. Many foreigners come to Sri Lanka specifically on gem buying safaris. There are also many private companies that organize tours to gem mining areas.
 
Gem buying safaris in Sri Lanka are safer for foreigners than in other source countries. A gem buying safari in Sri Lanka is not complete without visiting Ratnapura, the gem city of Sri Lanka. Ratnapura has been famous for its gem mines since ancient times. The gem mines of Ratnapura district are all alluvial in nature, formed by the erosion of igneous and metamorphic rocks from the surrounding mountainous regions.
 
When buying gemstones on a safari one has to be careful because there are individuals selling synthetic gemstones and glass, in some cases mixed with natural gemstones without disclosing that the items are synthetic. If you are buying expensive gemstones, always tell the seller to follow you to a state or private gem lab in Sri Lanka where you can get the stone tested and certified.
 
There is a ban on exports of all rough gemstones from Sri Lanka. The ban has been put in place in order to allow added value, such as cutting, polishing and setting in jewelry, which brings more foreign exchange into the country. One can buy rough gemstones in the country and get it cut and polished here in Sri Lanka before leaving.

There are many state- of-the-art gem cutting companies here in Sri Lanka.
 
Q: Which gemstones are affordable and – which – if any are current bargains?
Dr. Shihaan: There is a wide range of gemstones and there are numerous factors that determine the value of a gemstone. The bottom line is that you get what you pay for. A very rare, high quality gemstone may be affordable for an individual who has the extra resources to pay, while being unaffordable to the average middle class buyer.
 
Of course gemstones are much cheaper in source countries like Sri Lanka, Pakistan etc. In the gem and jewelry industry earnings are made by different individuals at different levels of trade, and along the line the value of the gem appreciates. For example the miner sells the gemstones to the local Sri Lankan buyer; the local buyer processes the rough gemstones using the services of expert cutters and polishers and then sells the processed gemstones either directly to a foreign buyer or to a super dealer who has foreign contacts. Some of the local dealers prefer to get their gemstones set on a piece of jewelry, such as a necklace, bracelet, ring etc. using the services of expert jewelry craftsmen before selling them with a profit.
 
The value of a gemstone is based on the same basic principle that is common to any item or commodity. It works the same as in economics  - the principles such as scarcity, supply and demand. The combination of these factors determines the "Price of an Item". In addition, the physical properties of gemstones, e.g. quality of cutting, flawlessness, weight of the stone, transparency, intensity of color and standards of polishing are important factors that determine the value of a gemstone.

Another important factor is the beauty assessed by the human eye (eye-catching beauty). In other words, when a gemstone is offered for sale, it speaks for itself.
 
The old concept of classifying gemstones into precious gemstones (e.g. sapphires, rubies, alexandrites and emeralds) and semi-precious gemstones (e.g. garnets, tourmalines, quartz and zircons) is discouraged because some high quality semi-precious gemstones like rubellite tourmalines and paraiba tourmalines can be much more expensive than some precious gemstones like sapphires and rubies.
 
A low quality gemstone will have low price and it will not be of any use as an investment because the price will not appreciate and you will not be able to sell it.

Gemstones can be bought at much cheaper prices in source countries. One should be very careful when buying gemstones that are too cheap, because it might either be of very poor quality or synthetic. When buying gemstones and diamonds one should also be mindful if they were mined under proper ethical guidelines with no human rights violations. The gemstones and diamonds you purchase must also not fuel communal clashes and wars.
 
Dr Shihaan Mohammed Larif, Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of InternetStone.com  in Sri Lanka thank you very much for this fascinating and useful insight.

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The treasure today are oil, rubber, uranium but also - gemstones for industrial and other use – raw materials from two continents bordering the Arabian Sea. The ships may be oil tankers or swift cargo vessels skimming between Mukalla in Yemen and Bombay or Colombo faster than Sindbad`s wildest dreams. Yet these ships supplying the industrial needs of a twentieth – century world, are merely continuing a tradition which goes back past Sindbad to the beginning of recorded history.

IMAGE:  From time immemorial, Sri Lanka has been famous for its blue sapphires