Pruning Climbing Roses - How to Prune Climbing Roses
Pruning climbing roses helps them to grow and flower better. Climbing roses are as popular as their bushy twins. This article attempts to answer a common garden query, how to prune climbing roses...
One of the most essential requirements of pruning is a good gardening tool; a sharp pair of shears (garden scissors), in different sizes. A jagged end will damage the delicate stems, and bud growth. Climbing roses are not self-trailing, they need to be trained onto a garden trellis or a horizontal support fencing. If left to its own design, they become a tangled mess of branches with very few and unhealthy flowers. Pruning should be done any time between late autumn and late winter, as by then, the flowering season is over, and the climber has shed its leaves. It is easier to prune when the plants are bare, as they allow a better idea of its trailing route.
Pruning Young Climbing Roses
Young climbers need formative training and pruning to establish themselves. Young climbing roses that are under 3 years, should not be pruned frequently, as it is important for the main veins to grow strong and establish themselves. Couple of main strong vines should be trained out horizontally, to ensure that the shoots do not cross each other. The sprout (shoots) coming from these vines are the flower producers. To facilitate speedy growth on the main branches (vines), tip-prune them till the first strong bud, to encourage new lateral shoots. Around the same time, remove all dead, diseased or weak growth, and dead flower heads to encourage further flowering. One can also prune just before the flowering season starts, however, this pruning is done to clear the plants of any overgrowth, or entanglements. Do not prune close to the flowering bud sprouts. A young climber should be pruned only to encourage growth, until well established.
Pruning Established Climbing Roses
Pruning established roses is easier than pruning young climbers. As their formative training is done, pruning is only done to further bushy and large flower growths. Once the flowing season is over, and the plant is bare, limit the rose vines (major ones) to about four or six, and spread them out on all sides. Preferably keep the younger green ones, and remove the excess vines. Cut back the tips of these vines by a couple of inches. Unlike other roses, only tips have to be pruned for climbers, as it is unhealthy for the plant to have its main stems (down stems) severely cut back, and pruning back the long stems will alter the look and training of the climber. However, dead stumps at the base of the plant can encourage rot, so that also needs to be cut away. One can lightly prune the main stems, by cutting back the side shoots about 2-3 inches, only if they have outgrown their space.
Pruning will also depend on the two types of climbing roses; once flowering and repeat flowering climbers. Once flowering roses should be pruned right after the flowering season is over. As they mostly flower on the old wood, prune just about a quarter of the wood stems. Prune repeat flowering climbers during its inactive period. Constantly keep cutting dead flower heads to encourage speedy re-flowering. Prune, either in late winter or early spring, cut about one-third of the old wood veins, and trim the remaining to control its growth and shape.
While pruning will boost better growth; after pruning, care also plays a vital role in its establishment. Clear all pruned and rotted stems, leaves, and flowers from around the climber base and dispose it. This will help control the spread of plant diseases like mildew, black spot, etc. Spread a rose fertilizer over the soil and mulch them with layer of garden compost to encourage growth. Pruning climbing roses will encourage healthier stems and more attractive large sized roses.

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