Parasite Control : Control the Pests that Plague your Dog

No matter how healthy your dog is, they face an almost constant assault from both external and internal parasites such as fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, mites, lice, heartworms (spread by infected mosquitoes), tapeworms (often obtained by ingesting an infected flea), roundworms, hookworms, whip worms, and even microscopic protozoa. Just what risk do these insidious pests pose to your canine companion though, other than the obvious itchy skin that can result from the bite of a flea or mosquito? The list of potential diseases and physical symptoms can include, but not be limited to, the following:

• Babesiosis
• Colorado Tick Fever
• Ehrlichiosis
• Giardia
• Haemobartonellosis
• Lyme Disease
• Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever
• Tick Paralysis
• Tick-Borne Relapsing Fever
• Tularemia
• West Nile Virus
• Anemia (i.e. a deficiency of red blood cells and/or hemoglobin which carry oxygen throughout the body)
• Decreased lung function
• Encephalitis (i.e. inflammation of the brain)
• Flea allergy dermatitis
• Hair loss
• Heart damage and/or failure
• Joint swelling and pain
• Numerous gastro-intestinal problems including vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite
• Skin infections
• Suppression of the immune system
• Weight loss
• Death

When looking at the "big parasite picture" from this angle, it can all seem terribly frightening. However, the healthier your dog is, the better they’ll be able to defend themselves against such attacks and/or to rebound from any symptoms or ailments that they do acquire. Healthier dogs also seem to be "less attractive" to such pests and, therefore, less likely to be attacked by them in the first place.

The other good news is that there are a wide range of weapons to ward off and/or to fight such pests and their associated health risks. Such products often come in the form of medicinal and "natural" collars, dips, foggers, oral drops/pills, powders, shampoos, "spot-ons," and sprays. While many claims and testimonials are made pertaining to the effectiveness of such medicated products, one must take into consideration the potential risks that are associated with their use.

Risks can be minimized by using the least amount needed for the shortest length of time deemed necessary (e.g. spacing medicated flea treatments six weeks apart instead of four and only using them during the "warm season," not year round). Such risks can include, but not be limited to, the following:
• Any chemical-based parasite product, whether a flea collar or a pill, can cause an allergic reaction ranging from mild (e.g. skin rashes, hair loss) to deadly (e.g. epileptic seizure).
• Chemical-based parasite products can be very harsh on the toxin-filtering kidneys and liver and can lead to their eventual failure.
• Chemical-based parasite products can cause a variety of autoimmune disorders whereby the body begins attacking itself instead of the offending organism.
• The overuse of any chemical-based parasite product can lead to the offending parasite developing a resistance to such a product.

What’s a dog owner to do then to protect their beloved furry friend from an onslaught of parasites and their associated health risks? How about taking a more natural approach, one that’s generally far safer, much less expensive, often times more effective, and that focuses on also controlling your dog’s environment instead of just "attacking" your dog directly?

These are just a few of the options you have when waging such a holistic-based war:

• Ants – allow these "lesser of the environmental evils" to survive as they feed on flea eggs and larvae
• Boric acid products – contain a powder that attacks the outer "protective layer" of the offending parasite – most often flea larvae - by drying it out; can be applied to your dog’s "environment" (e.g. bedding, carpeting) and directly on them too, if used cautiously (the dust can be irritating to the lungs)
• Diatomaceous earth products – contain a powder made from the hard outer shell of single-celled algae (i.e. diatoms) that generally works in the same manner as boric acid; can also be added to food to help rid your dog of roundworms and other various parasites
• Essential oils - including eucalyptus, cedar, and rosemary
• Flea combs - should be used daily and any fleas that are found should be "drowned" in soapy water
• Flea traps - use light and/or heat to capture fleas in water or on "sticky traps"
• Herbal products to be applied topically - including collars, powders, sprays, shampoos, and towelettes that contain such herbs as citronella, eucalyptus, lavender, lemon, neem, and penny royal.
• Herbal products to be ingested – including powders, pills, and liquid drops (e.g. tinctures that are made much like flower essences but that are extracted using grain alcohol instead of water); contain such herbs as black walnut green hulls, cloves, and wormwood (the combination of those three herbs is said to be effective at killing more than one hundred species of parasites, including all of the various "developmental stages")
• Homeopathic remedies – including Chenopodium, Cina, Filix mas, Sulphur, and nosodes for heartworm
• Mosquito dunks and/or drops – contain a naturally occurring bacteria that is only toxic to certain insects; can be added directly to bodies of mosquito-laden water (e.g. birdbaths, ponds)
• Natural predators – put up purple martin bird houses and bat boxes to aid these parasite-eating predators
• Nematode worm products – can be regularly applied to your yard as they feed off of flea larvae and other outdoor pests (e.g. grubs)
• Ultrasonic "repelling" devices - including collars and combs
• Vitamins and supplements - including B vitamins, brewers yeast, garlic (in moderation), and essential fatty acids
• Vacuum your home often and immediately dispose of its contents outside of the home
• Wash your pet’s bedding weekly in very hot, soapy water

The use of such "natural" parasite-controlling products and practices will likely have fewer negative side effects on your dog than if you use their chemical-based counterparts. Your own home environment will also likely have less "toxic residue" than if you used chemical products.

Most holistic veterinarians and other holistic practitioners will tell you that they believe the use of chemical-based parasite products will actually weaken your dog’s immune system, thereby doing more harm than good to their overall health and well-being. In such a compromised health condition, they’ll actually be more vulnerable to a parasitic attack. Many holistic practitioners might also tell you that the risk posed by a population of parasites is far less than the risks associated with using "toxic" control products.

Your holistic health care team will instead likely encourage you to focus on providing your dog with the best environment you possibly can – high-quality food, homeopathic and herbal remedies regular exercise, mental stimulation in a stress-free home, and minimal exposure to Western medicines – and to use "natural" products when needed to control parasites. The result just might be that your dog will fend better in the "battle of the bugs" than if they are repeatedly dosed with potentially deadly chemicals.

Whatever method of parasite control you chose for your dog, focus on prevention, plan your attack, and be consistent with implementing such a plan. It’s simply far easier to prevent such things as a flea or worm infestation than it is to get rid of one and to clear up the lingering physical effects on your beloved canine companion.