Lingerie, From Depravity To Fashion Necessity

Lingerie has a unique history - from being considered a depravity to a sign of social status;and from there to current use of lingerie as street fashion.
Lingerie-- the word suggests lacey, titillating garments. But lingerie came from humble origins. The term "lingerie" is from the French linge, or linen alluding to the cloth from which underwear was by tradition made. By the end of the nineteenth century, lingerie had become a common term to describe underwear that had moved beyond sensible functions to be used as a device of for the exhibit of the female body. Lingerie was initially made for every size- including plus sizes.

However, caution was advocated at first: Lingerie should only be used by women within the confines of a happily married life. ". . . . dainty undergarments are not necessarily a sign of depravity" wrote one female fashion journalist in 1902. However, as the twentieth century progressed, the increase in the popularity and use of lingerie mirrored women's gradual freedom from the constraints of Victorian morality and notions of what constituted appropriate as they emerged as more socially independent beings. Lingerie was a departure from the rationalist and unashamedly moralistic undergarments advocated by the Victorian standards. For instance, one expert espoused the use of wool as the perfect underwear for reasons of hygiene and health.

At first , lingerie was a sign of social status, handmade and afforded only by the very few. Of note were those fashioned by the English couturier known as Lucile (Lady Duff-Gordon), who created camisoles, peignoirs, and petticoats using lace, chiffon, and crepe de chine, deliberately appealing to the sense of touch, and evoking a new eroticism for the twentieth-century woman. Although synthetic fibers such as rayon and nylon were developed and sold in the 1920s and 1930s as luxury fabrics through the use of the name "artificial silk" their development led to a democratization of lingerie.

WIKIPEDIA SAYS-Rayon is a very versatile fiber and has the same comfort properties as natural fibers. It can imitate the feel and texture of silk, wool, cotton and linen. The fibers are easily dyed in a wide range of colors. Rayon fabrics are soft, smooth, cool, comfortable, and highly absorbent, but they do not insulate body heat, making them ideal for use in hot and humid climates.

The more body-conscious fashions of that decade also led to a new item of lingerie, the teddy, named after its inventor Theodore Baer, who combined a chemise with a short slip or attached panties. The camisole, originally derived from a decorative waist-length garment with an embroidered front and shoulder bands that were worn over the corset for warmth and modesty, became a essential piece of lingerie, later transforming into an item of outerwear by the 1970s. Similarly the slip, a standard piece of lingerie from the 1950s was used by a number of fashion designers as outerwear in the 1990s, most notably John Galliano, Dolce & Gabbana.

Pajamas, designed after the loose pants worn in Asia, gained popularity as female attire in the late nineteenth century, but long nightgowns remained popular, even after women's skirts shortened in the early twentieth century. By the twenties, straight-cut silk and rayon nightgowns in delicate colors such as orchid , rose and snow were popular, while the mid-century favored gowns with strappy tight fitting tops over flowing skirts. Mixtures and superimpositions make lingerie an item of clothing in itself, so that fusion costumes like chemise jackets and wide legged pants make up an unexpected wardrobe. During the twentieth century, glamorous and lavish lingerie grew ever more available and affordable.

Today there is a continuance of the lingerie revitalization started in the 1990s, with both male and female consumers. Lingerie's status as an appealing, emphatically visible component of a woman's outfit has kept sales on an upward trend. It seems that visible lingerie has become a strong style. Redefined lingerie is a reasonably priced luxury item with a powerful appeal for the style conscious plus size consumer.

By Marie Wakefield
Published: 1/15/2008
 
Use the feedback form below to submit your comments.
Your Comments:
Your Name:
Use the form below to email this article to your friends.
Recipient Email Address:
 Separate multiple email addresses by ;
Your Name:
Your Email Address: