Kyrenia, Northern Cyprus

Probably the best known of all the resort towns in north Cyprus, Kyrenia is as famed these days for its shopping and restaurants as it is for its ancient harbor, but it is nevertheless the harbor that remains in most people's memories after a visit here. Described by at least one travel writer as "the most beautiful place in the world", the harbor and town date from around the end of the Trojan wars, when settlers arrived there and archeology suggests occupation of the site may be from as early as 5800BC. The earliest recorded reference to Kyrenia is in Egyptian writings, dating from the rule of Rameses II from around 1100BC.

Like the island of Cyprus as a whole, Kyrenia has survived and generally prospered under a succession of rulers. From its very beginnings Kyrenia and its traders benefited from its geographical location and its position on strategic trade routes. This remains true today and it has ensured the importance of the town through the ages. The current appearance of the harbor owes much to the trade in Carob and buildings surrounding the waterfront were mostly originally constructed as warehouses. Today, commercial trade uses the 'new harbor' a few miles away, and the 'old' harbor remains largely the preserve of sailing enthusiasts, tourist boating companies and diving concerns, though a few small fishing boats also berth there. No longer used for warehousing, the harbor is a pedestrian zone and the buildings lining the waterfront are mainly small restaurants, tavernas, bars and shops.

There are numerous traces of archeology throughout the area to signify the role of Kyrenia, including temples dedicated to Apollo and Aphrodite, but the most striking of all its monuments is Kyrenia Castle. Standing guard over the harbor, there has been some form of castle on the present site since Roman times. Fortified during Byzantine rule and enlarged during the Lusignan occupation of Cyprus, most of the current appearance of the castle dates to the Venetian period from around 1489. The Venetians were concerned about the possibility of the invasion of Cyprus by the rapidly expanding Ottoman Empire. With the Ottoman mainland only miles away, and their forces gaining strength every year, the Venetians set about fortifying Cyprus. The walls of Kyrenia Castle were enlarged, thickened and reinforced to defeat artillery attacks, and to resist any siege. The Venetians replaced the original drawbridge at the castle's entrance with the protected gatehouse that still exists today. They also kept the 12th century Byzantine church of St George the Castle safely within the walls. As fate would have it, when the Ottoman invasion finally occurred in 1571, the Venetians seem to have given up without a fight!

Today, you pass through the entrance in the northwest corner of the castle and walk along a long ramp, leading to the central parade ground area of the castle. On the way, passing a tomb, which is the last resting place of an Ottoman admiral. The central area is lined with guardrooms, living quarters and stables, with more ramps leading to defenses on the upper sections of the walls. You can also climb steps that take you to the Lusignan royal apartments and the small chapel. In the depths of the castle, you will discover dungeons, storage rooms and the all-important ' magazines', where gunpowder was stored clean and dry, ready for use. The battlements of Kyrenia Castle are worth the climb for the view alone, and with care you can walk around the whole extent of the castle's walls. Kyrenia Castle is also home to one of the world's most important pieces of marine archeology. In 1965, divers off the cost of Northern Cyprus discovered what has been found to be the oldest recorded shipwreck. The vessel, dating back to 300BC was a trade ship, carrying cargo that included amphorae full of almonds and wine as well as other items. The wreck was brought to the surface and is kept in a specially-controlled atmosphere to ensure its continued preservation.

Kyrenia, however, is certainly not all about a harbor and a castle. Although Nicosia is the administrative capital of Northern Cyprus, Kyrenia houses many governmental and civic offices. Commercially, the town is the center of the tourist industry of Northern Cyprus, and has a good concentration of shops. Kyrenia hotels are growing in number and the town has now a number of impressive, international standard properties. However, many visitors looking for a Kyrenia hotel find themselves drawn to one of the nearby villages, where space, peace and quiet are the first things on the menu. The harbor itself can be a little costly in terms of shopping (at least, compared with the generally low prices throughout north Cyprus!), but the town is awash with tiny alley-ways bustling with everything imaginable. If you are on the lookout for a holiday memory, gold and silver are sold primarily on the basis of weight, so are often good bargains. Copper, brass, wood and leather are favorite items too. If you aren't too worried about the waist-line, then Turkish Delight is an obvious favorite!

Although expanding to a degree, Kyrenia and the surrounding district still bring to mind an earlier time in the Mediterranean. Bustling and commercial they may be, but these are still places where shop-keepers will expect to provide a glass of tea and spend as much time chatting as actually selling. A magical place for an evening meal and a great area for a holiday, Kyrenia remains one of the Mediterranean's best-kept secrets.