Is Your Betta Fish Stressed?
Betta Fish are justly a very resilient aquarium fish that can survive in water conditions that many other aquarium fish cannot. However, keeping Siamese Fighting Fish in fish bowls will not permit them to flourish or be happy. Unless special consideration is given to their requirements, they will become stressed, resulting in bad health and frustration for the owner. This article explains what is required to keep betta fish healthy and happy.
Bright mysterious betta fish swimming around pretty glass containers have become an admired choice of pet for the home. It can be argued that they rival even the humble goldfish in popularity. People’s interest for these amazing fish doesn’t stop with the family home, but you’ll also find betta fish bowls on show in company offices, restaurants, and even on tables at wedding receptions.
Siamese Fighting Fish are truly a tough and adaptable fish that can accept water and tank conditions that many other fish can’t. However, keeping Siamese fighting fish in undersized fish bowls or glass jars will not permit them to thrive, nor will they be content fish. Unless special attention is given to their environment and requirements, they will become stressed, resulting in illness and regret for the owner.
So what special consideration should they be given? Before I answer that question let’s realize a little about the background of the Siamese fighting fish.
Bettas are indigenous to tropical Asia where they live in shallow warm waters, often being found in weedy rice paddy ponds. Having a distinctive labyrinth organ located on the very top of their head allows them to endure in this oxygen starved environment. Their labyrinth organ assists them with extracting oxygen from the air and they do this by merely raising their head to the water surface. That is why you’ll often see fighting fish hanging inactive at the water surface.
Although bettas are quite capable of living in little betta bowls or tanks, they do much prefer a larger oxygenated aquarium fish tank to live in. A tank of at least three gallons is my recommendation. The fish tank should be fixed with a small filter which will not only clean the aquarium of organic wastes, but also oxygenate their water.
Smaller fish tanks, or betta fish containers, necessitate daily water maintenance, especially if the container has no filter! All fish create waste which builds up in the bowl and steadily rots, contributing to this rotting organic matter will be left behind food. As a result, nitrite and nitrate levels in the water will rise. Nitrite is especially lethal to fish and if not extracted out of the water, will end up with your betta becoming sick. Countless fish enthusiasts fail to notice nitrate because their betta bowl looks clean. Don’t be fooled by this as nitrite is hard to identify by simply viewing your tank. By the time it becomes visually noticeable it will often be too late for your Siamese Fighting Fish. Betta fish keepers need to test their betta’s water regularly for nitrite levels and carry out daily water changes (changing up to a third of the tank water volume). This maintenance and monitoring can be greatly lessened by having a larger aquarium with a filter.
When releasing your fish into its new tank or when making water changes, it is very important that the water is clear of chlorine and that it is cycled. In an idyllic water environment, waste material is broken down by bacteria into nitrates and nitrites, and then other helpful bacteria will feed off these, keeping the water in equilibrium.
When topping up with new dechlorinated water to your tank, the new water will not have established colonies of beneficial bacteria living in it. This can result in rapid imbalances if fish are introduced too quickly. Water should be added and permitted to cycle in the fish aquarium for at least a week before adding your betta. To speed this process up you could introduce a cup of water full of beneficial bacteria from an existing aquarium fish tank or even outside pond to the new betta fish tank. These useful bacteria like to set up themselves in the filter and won’t be prolific in tanks without one.
Now that you know why betta fish do best in larger filtered tanks, let’s look at temperature. Being a truly tropical fish, betta fish do require warm temperatures of about 78 degrees Fahrenheit. They can tolerate cooler temperatures, but won’t be happy nor will they flourish. What bettas won’t tolerate though is a fluctuating water temperature. Small betta bowls or containers, to a great extent, change in temperatures from night to day. These fluctuations will stress your betta resulting in illness. Betta tanks should have a small heater with a thermostat installed to maintain the water temperature, keeping it steady and warm. Placing your betta in sunlight to warm it up, or by using an external heater will not be adequate, and in fact could cause greater fluctuations in temperature.
Water pH is a less significant concern for betta owners. Betta fish will accept a wide pH range, so long as it remains stable and does not excessively fluctuate. Like a fluctuating water temperature, a fluctuating pH will put strain on your pet.
Betta keepers like to be able to view their magnificent betta fish and will sometimes, unknowingly, leave their betta bowls or tanks void of plants or hiding spots. Betta fish, (just like us), like to be able to disappear from peering eyes at times. By having nowhere to retreat to, they will feel exposed to predators and bright light, which will again stress them.
When looking for plants and decorations for their betta bowl, it is best to select living plants as these help with the cycling of the water. Sharp edged plastic plants and ornaments can catch on the betta fish’s fins, resulting in tears. Floating plants will filter light and give a structure for when your Siamese Fighting Fish wants to build a bubble nest.
Lastly, betta fish are renowned for jumping, particularly during the night. A lid for your fish’s tank is very important if you want your betta fish to stay put. A jumping fish in a lidless aquarium will, without a doubt, end up dead!
If you enjoyed viewing this article and would like to read more articles on betta fish or on other areas of keeping fish in ponds or aquariums then I invite you to visit my website http://www.keepingpetfish/betta-fish/betta-aquarium
Good luck with your bettas!
Siamese Fighting Fish are truly a tough and adaptable fish that can accept water and tank conditions that many other fish can’t. However, keeping Siamese fighting fish in undersized fish bowls or glass jars will not permit them to thrive, nor will they be content fish. Unless special attention is given to their environment and requirements, they will become stressed, resulting in illness and regret for the owner.
So what special consideration should they be given? Before I answer that question let’s realize a little about the background of the Siamese fighting fish.
Bettas are indigenous to tropical Asia where they live in shallow warm waters, often being found in weedy rice paddy ponds. Having a distinctive labyrinth organ located on the very top of their head allows them to endure in this oxygen starved environment. Their labyrinth organ assists them with extracting oxygen from the air and they do this by merely raising their head to the water surface. That is why you’ll often see fighting fish hanging inactive at the water surface.
Although bettas are quite capable of living in little betta bowls or tanks, they do much prefer a larger oxygenated aquarium fish tank to live in. A tank of at least three gallons is my recommendation. The fish tank should be fixed with a small filter which will not only clean the aquarium of organic wastes, but also oxygenate their water.
Smaller fish tanks, or betta fish containers, necessitate daily water maintenance, especially if the container has no filter! All fish create waste which builds up in the bowl and steadily rots, contributing to this rotting organic matter will be left behind food. As a result, nitrite and nitrate levels in the water will rise. Nitrite is especially lethal to fish and if not extracted out of the water, will end up with your betta becoming sick. Countless fish enthusiasts fail to notice nitrate because their betta bowl looks clean. Don’t be fooled by this as nitrite is hard to identify by simply viewing your tank. By the time it becomes visually noticeable it will often be too late for your Siamese Fighting Fish. Betta fish keepers need to test their betta’s water regularly for nitrite levels and carry out daily water changes (changing up to a third of the tank water volume). This maintenance and monitoring can be greatly lessened by having a larger aquarium with a filter.
When releasing your fish into its new tank or when making water changes, it is very important that the water is clear of chlorine and that it is cycled. In an idyllic water environment, waste material is broken down by bacteria into nitrates and nitrites, and then other helpful bacteria will feed off these, keeping the water in equilibrium.
When topping up with new dechlorinated water to your tank, the new water will not have established colonies of beneficial bacteria living in it. This can result in rapid imbalances if fish are introduced too quickly. Water should be added and permitted to cycle in the fish aquarium for at least a week before adding your betta. To speed this process up you could introduce a cup of water full of beneficial bacteria from an existing aquarium fish tank or even outside pond to the new betta fish tank. These useful bacteria like to set up themselves in the filter and won’t be prolific in tanks without one.
Now that you know why betta fish do best in larger filtered tanks, let’s look at temperature. Being a truly tropical fish, betta fish do require warm temperatures of about 78 degrees Fahrenheit. They can tolerate cooler temperatures, but won’t be happy nor will they flourish. What bettas won’t tolerate though is a fluctuating water temperature. Small betta bowls or containers, to a great extent, change in temperatures from night to day. These fluctuations will stress your betta resulting in illness. Betta tanks should have a small heater with a thermostat installed to maintain the water temperature, keeping it steady and warm. Placing your betta in sunlight to warm it up, or by using an external heater will not be adequate, and in fact could cause greater fluctuations in temperature.
Water pH is a less significant concern for betta owners. Betta fish will accept a wide pH range, so long as it remains stable and does not excessively fluctuate. Like a fluctuating water temperature, a fluctuating pH will put strain on your pet.
Betta keepers like to be able to view their magnificent betta fish and will sometimes, unknowingly, leave their betta bowls or tanks void of plants or hiding spots. Betta fish, (just like us), like to be able to disappear from peering eyes at times. By having nowhere to retreat to, they will feel exposed to predators and bright light, which will again stress them.
When looking for plants and decorations for their betta bowl, it is best to select living plants as these help with the cycling of the water. Sharp edged plastic plants and ornaments can catch on the betta fish’s fins, resulting in tears. Floating plants will filter light and give a structure for when your Siamese Fighting Fish wants to build a bubble nest.
Lastly, betta fish are renowned for jumping, particularly during the night. A lid for your fish’s tank is very important if you want your betta fish to stay put. A jumping fish in a lidless aquarium will, without a doubt, end up dead!
If you enjoyed viewing this article and would like to read more articles on betta fish or on other areas of keeping fish in ponds or aquariums then I invite you to visit my website http://www.keepingpetfish/betta-fish/betta-aquarium
Good luck with your bettas!
Betta Care... Keeping Bettas Healthy and Happy!
Betta Care information for Betta Fish owners.
Betta Care information for Betta Fish owners.

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