Fort - 4

The history of Orchcha is inextricably linked with Bundelkhand or Yuddhadesa, as it was known. This was a war-torn region in the heart of India. The Bundelas can be traced back to the 14th century AD. There are various legends about the origin of the Bundelas. The Kshutr Purkash, written under the patronage of Raja Chatrasaal, claims that the Bundelas are of the lineage of Lord Rama of the Suryavanshi clan. Another account states that the Bundelas were Rajputs of mixed blood, their race being traced to the inter-marriage of a Gaharwar Rajput chief and a Khangar girl. Yet another story woven around this dynasty, speaks of the Bundelas as being the descendents of Ekalavya. This is because the Bundelas never use their thumb when shooting the arrow from the bow, in honour of Ekalavya. (Ekalavya was a prince belonging to a low caste. He was very keen to learn the skill of archery from the greatest teacher of the time, Dronacharya. Dronacharya, however, rejected him. Undeterred, Ekalavya built a clay image of Dronacharya and taught himself how to use the bow. He became so accomplished at this skill, that Dronacharya demanded that Ekalavya give him the thumb of his right hand as his gurudakshina or teacher’s fee. Without a second thought Ekalavya cut off his thumb. Such was his devotion to the teacher). Another legend has it that a local Rajput chief, Maharajah Hemkaran or Panchum Singh Bundela was driven out of his kingdom by his brothers. While he was in exile, he decided to offer his life as a sacrifice to goddess Vindhyavasini Bhavani. However, just as he took up his sword, she appeared to him. The drop (būnd) of his blood that had fallen on the ground miraculously took the form of a baby, and was suckled by the goddess herself. The people who were born of this child were known as Bundelas. The Maharajah then, with the blessings of the goddess, established his kingdom in Mahauni which is in the Vindhya mountains. The high-spirited and highly independent Bundelas refused to be subdued by the Mughals. As time passed, some Bundela kings commanded army units in the Mughal army as they moved south. Thus, the legendary Raja De Singh (Tej Singh) features quite prominently in Tamil lore. Similarly, Raja Bheem Singh’s 20-year rule in the Rayal Seema area is written about in the Srisaila Charitra of the Kurnool District in Andhra Pradesh. Closer home, a Bundel chief Rudra Pratap founded the Bundela kingdom at Orchcha. He ruled Orchcha from 1501 to 1531 when he died while trying to save a cow from a lion.

The exquisite Orchcha fort is built on a small island in the Betwa river. The island is connected to the mainland by a multi-arched bridge. Till today the fort has lost none of its grandeur or charm.

Some poems in stone are -

The Chaturbhuj Temple – This temple built during the reign of Akbar, by the Queen of Orchcha, stands on a mound. The design is rather unusual. Though, from the outside, it seems to be a square, inside, it gives the appearance of being cruciform in shape. The four corners of the building have small spires. In the middle is a large dome. This dome is over the hall or sabhamandap which faces the sanctum sanctorum. On top of the sanctum sanctorum, there is a large spire. All along the walls are beautifully made arched niches. It was originally made to house the statue of Lord Rama.

The Raj Mahal – It was Raja Rudra Pratap Singh who started the construction of this palace. It was, however, completed by his sons. Madhukar Shah who reigned from 1554 to 1592, was the one who finally completed it. The complex is a perfect square, and is divided into two courtyards. The palaces around the courtyards are many-storied. All entrances and windows are arched. Exquisitely executed lattice work and carved floral designs distinguish this simple, yet elegant palace. The roof is decorated with cupolas. The walls and ceilings are covered with fabulously coloured murals of religious and secular themes. The Durbar-e-Khas and the Diwan-i-Am are worth a visit. The Durbar-e-Khas is on the first floor. High battlements from where the enemy could be attacked surround the hall. The Diwan-i-Am was the venue of the meetings the ruler had with his council. This hall has 3 platforms at 3 levels. The ruler sat on the highest one, while the ministers sat in order of importance. The huge columns as well as the ceiling are beautifully decorated with paintings. On the outside are the decorative elephant brackets.

The Raja Ram Temple – This temple is of a rather unusual style. It is built like a palace, but has tall temple spires. There is a story associated with this temple. Originally, the palace was built by Madhukar Shah as a palace for his Queen. There is the usual central courtyard surrounded by the Queen’s living quarters. However, as the story goes, Lord Rama appeared to Raja Madhukar Shah in a dream. The ruler, therefore, brought an idol of Lord Rama from Ayodhya, and kept it in this palace prior to its initiation in the Chaturbhuj Temple. However, when it was time to take the idol to the Chaturbhuj Temple, the idol could not be moved. Raja Madhukar Shah then recollected that according to his dream, the idol would remain wherever it was first placed. Thus this palace became the temple of Lord Ram. It is only in this palace-temple that the Lord Rama is worshipped as King. While the exterior of this palace-temple is decorated, the interiors are austere but elegant.

The Jahangir Mahal - One of Orchcha’s most impressive palaces is the Jahangir Mahal. Behind its beautiful façade lies a rather gory story. Emperor Akbar, sadly, had a stormy relationship with his son Jahangir, or Salim as he was known. Akbar wanted Jahangir to attack Mewar, but Jahangir refused to do so. Instead, he made himself ruler of Allahabad. His defiance hurt and angered Akbar and he sent for his confidante Abul Fazl, who was in the Deccan region. (Abul Fazl was the person who wrote the Akbar Nama). Jahangir’s jealousy of and hatred for Abul Fazl was well known. When Abul Fazl came to the range of the Vindhya mountains near Shivpuri, one of the Bundela chieftains, Bir Singh, who was related to the ruling Bundela Raja, Madhukar Shah, ambushed Abul Fazl, and sent his head to Jahangir. Akbar tried in vain to catch Bir Singh, but he could not be caught. By supplying the Mughal army with 1000 cavalry and 2000 infantrymen, Bir Singh secured the position of an army commander in Jahangir’s army. On Akbar’s death in 1605, Jahangir was crowned Emperor, and he appointed the loyal Bir Singh, King. Bir Singh ruled Orchcha from 1605 to 1627. He was a great builder, and fused elements of the Hindu and Islamic styles of architecture in the many buildings that he designed. Symmetry, so crucial to the Islamic style was blended with domes and exquisite carvings on stone. The magnificent Jahangir Mahal was built in honour of the Emperor when he visited Orchcha. There are 2 stone elephants with bells in their trunks, on either side of the ornate ceremonial palace gates. In fact the façade which faces east is fabulously decorated with blue tiles. Delicately sculpted chhatris adorn this many-tiered palace. The intricately carved designs, paintings, and stone lacework or jaalis on the numerous windows, balconies, and terraces, complete the opulence of the palace. There are 8 pavilions in this fabulous structure. The third floor had the Diwan-i-am where the ruler met his subjects. This was in itself a raised magnificent structure. Elephant brackets line the entrance. From the Jahangir Mahal the view all around is absolutely stunning.

The Laxminarayan Temple – This temple has a unique architectural style where the temple style blends with the fortress style. What is to be noted are the priceless and gorgeous frescoes and murals that cover the walls and ceilings. The artist has chosen both secular as well as spiritual subjects. The colours, even today, look vibrant and fresh. This temple was built in 1622 during the reign of Raja Bir Singh.

The Rai Parveen Mahal – The exquisitely beautiful, talented and highly-accomplished musician, dancer and poetess Rai Parveen was the lady love of Raja Indramani, who ruled Orchcha from 1672 to 1676. She was known as the Nightingale of Orchcha. Having heard about her, Emperor Akbar demanded her presence in his court at Delhi. Rai Parveen went to Delhi with her tutor, Keshav Dasa. She not only captured Akbar’s heart, but was the toast of Delhi. She, however, remained true to Indramani. Akbar was so struck by her faithfulness, love and loyalty, that he sent her back in great dignity to Orchcha. Rai Parveen’s palace is a low brick building, only 2 storeys high, so that her building blended with the many trees that surrounded her house. On the second floor the walls were decorated with Indian dance poses and the Nritya Mudra. Small decorative niches were cunningly set in the wall for the light to come in. The gardens were superbly landscaped, with the octagonal flower beds. The shrubs and bushes exhibited topiary art of a very high order, and created a kind of fairyland. The water system for this magnificent garden was elaborate and reminiscent of the water systems created by the Mughals.

The Tope Khana was where the armoury was housed.

Jujhar Singh (1627 – 1636) built, renovated and strengthened the battlements of the Orchcha fort. Emperor Shah Jahan felt insulted and angered at Jujhar Singh, and sent an army to put the ruler down. The year was 1636. Jujhar Singh was killed, and for a short time, Orchcha was annexed to the Mughal Empire. However, it was soon returned to the Bundelas. Jujhar Singh had a young brother, Hardaul, who was of a saintly temperament. Jujhar suspected him of having a clandestine relationship with his consort. Hardaul, who deeply loved and respected his brother, was grieved and killed himself to prove his innocence. Ever since, Dinman Hardaul has been considered a martyr, and even today is venerated in Bundelkhand.

Phool Bagh – This is actually a palace, but it is so aesthetically laid out with a garden that Phool Bagh is actually a very apt name for it. It was created in memory of Dinman Hardaul. The garden has a row of fountains in the centre. At the end of the garden, is a pavilion supported by splendidly carved pillars. The brackets are in the shape of peacocks and there are the usual cunningly worked niches in the walls. During the hot summer months, the rulers and their families literally went underground to beautifully constructed rooms called the Thakhana below the pavilion. The Thakhana was kept cooled by a cleverly constructed Persian cooling unit. This unit was made up of 2 towers or dastagirs called the Sawan Bhadon pillars built close by. The towers were perforated on the top such that they could catch the wind, while the lower part of the towers was connected to a reservoir of water. The towers, the water distribution system (aqueducts), and the underground reservoir of water were ingeniously connected to a Chandan Katora or fountain in the pavilion above the retreat. The water from the underground reservoir was pushed up into the Chandan Katora and fell like a fountain onto the roof of the retreat thus keeping the Thakhana very cool.

The story about Orchcha will be incomplete without the story of Bundel Kesari Maharaj Chhatrasaal who ruled from 1649 to 1731 AD. Maharaj Chatrasaal was not only a man of great valour, fearlessness and courage, but he was a great statesman, ruler, patron of the arts and literature and a great poet. He was born in a cave on the 4th of May 1649. Though surrounded by the Mughals, this baby’s parents escaped with him in what could only be termed a miracle. Could the son of the dauntless Champat Rai and his brave and beautiful wife Lad Kunwari be anything other than lion-hearted? As Chatrasaal grew, he wanted to learn all about Mughal warfare, and to this end, he enlisted in the Mughal army as it marched against Shivaji. He was soon disillusioned and he deserted the Mughal army for Shivaji! Shivaji understood the rebel spirit in Chatrasaal and taught him the tactics of guerrilla warfare that he used against the Mughals. After a long period of training under Shivaji, Chatrasaal and his small band of men, took Shivaji’s blessings and went on their way. Shivaji himself applied a tilak on Chatrasaal’s forehead and tied the sword of Bhavani around his waist. With just 5 horsemen, and 25 swordsmen, Chatrasaal, aged 22 years, took the blessings of Swami Narharidevji and rose in revolt against the Mughals. The year was 1671 AD. Many Bundelas, including his brothers joined him and he managed to annexe vast tracts of land. He was unstoppable, and a terror to the Mughal forces. Though Aurangazeb could do nothing about Chatrasaal, in later years the Mughals managed to establish amiable relations with him. He ruled all the territory between the Jamuna river in the North, to the Narmada river in the South, from the Chambal in the west to Tons in the east. However, Chatrasaal met his nemesis in Mohammad Bangash, a Pathan. Chatrasaal looked to the Peshwas for help. His manner was as courteous as it was unique. Chatrasaal sent a beautifully composed poem asking for assistance to fight against Mohammad Bangash. The Peshwa came himself in response and offered unconditional aid. In return, Chatrasaal treated him as his third son, bestowing on him one-third of his kingdom. The story goes that Chatrasaal also gave Baji Rao 1, the exquisitely beautiful and accomplished Mastani in marriage. The Peshwa remained Chatrasaal’s devoted son all his life!

Cenotaphs or memorials in stone of the rulers of Orchcha stand as sentinels on the shores of the Betwa river. While the cenotaphs of all the rulers have the traditional spires, Bir Singh’s cenotaph is distinctly Islamic in design.

By and by the Bundelas extended their rule over Datia, Panna, Charkhari, Jaso, Ajaigarh and Orchcha which they ruled till 1950, before they joined the Indian Union.