Child labour in India: Primark latest to come under fire

Last year the Gap came under fire for the use of child labour in the supply end of its Indian operation. This year Primark stands accused of using Indian child labour.

In the UK attention was drawn to Primark's underage workers by the BBC program Panorama and by protests organized by War On Want.

Primark suppliers in the Tirapur region of Nadu province were sub-contracting embroidery work to child workers. Primark claims it wasn't aware this was going on and fired three suppliers for "failing to meet its strict ethical standards."

As is usually the case, these companies are quick to step up to the plate when the light of public scrutiny is directed at their supplier and sub-contracting practices.

Investigations have revealed an underworld of sweatshops in India where young children are forced to toil in Dickensian-like conditions. There are estimated to be 15,000 garment factories in New Delhi. The back alleys of Delhi, for example in the Shahpur Jat neighborhood, are host to sweatshops where children toil in appalling conditions, often working 15 hour days in cramped filthy rooms. These kids are frequently obliged to sleep on the same floor where they work. Some are as young as 10. Many come from poor rural families. In some cases the parents are tricked by agents who offer false promises that aren't fulfilled.

The phenomenon of "bonded child labour" also comes into play. Loans are offered to the parents in order to secure the labour of the child. The children are then used to pay off the debts.These loans are usually quite small relatively speaking - in the 500 to 7,000 rupee range - but nonetheless difficult to pay back, especially given the high interests rates involved. The debt becomes an invisible lock and key, turning the child into a virtual slave.

Bonded labour was outlawed by the 1956 U.N. Supplementary Convention on the Abolition of Slavery, the Slave Trade, and Institutions and Practices Similar to Slavery.

Child labour isn't a minor deviation from garment industry standards in India. It's a systemic problem that is so embedded in the sweatshop circuit, most companies are kidding themselves if they think their sub-contractors are immune to the temptations. Sub-contractors want to maximize their profits and are prepared to cut corners, including turning a blind eye.

The repeated exposure of child labour situations in India, raises serious questions about whether or not companies can be trusted to police themselves. Many activists familiar with the situation believe governments need to take a more active role by introducing legislation along with penalties as a deterrent against child exploitation in the supply end of the garment industry.

The Indian government has been dragging its feet on the child labour problem for years - a problem that isn't just a sweatshop concern. Throughout India children are used in many different sectors of the economy. Government figures suggest that up to 13 million children are in forced labour situations, although this is regarded as a gross under-estimate by activists. Some NGO's have put the number of Indian working children as high as 60 million.

In 2006, the Indian government took limited steps to expand laws against child labour. Much more needs to be done.

There have been some positive responses by the garment industry. The Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) is an alliance of labour unions and non-governmental organizations. It was formed in the Netherlands in 1990 and operates in 11 European countries.The organization lobbies for stronger worker protection legislation.

There are some who argue that in a developing economy child labour is unavoidable. This argument places the imperatives of supply and demand economics above the welfare of the child. What possible way is there it justify a ten year old forced to work 15 hour days in a crowded workshop, cut off from family and the normal activities associated with childhood, often under the burden of a debt?