Catch the Fever for Catching a Wave!

There have been some great movies made about surfing, and everyone has seen posters and calendars with bronzed, buff bodies hanging ten on surfboards looking sleek and skilled in the sunlight. But you don't have to be Adonis to be a surfer, and you don't even have to be buff and athletic to be good at it. All you need is the drive and ambition to learn the ropes, and the dedication to practice and take time to learn the basics.

The first thing you need to learn about surfing is the engineering and physics of a surfboard. Surfboards have a specific center of gravity, and they are designed to float on the top of the water. If you put any surfboard into a swimming pool or still body of water, it will settle down and come to rest in the same position each time. So your optimal goal in surfing is to position yourself on the board in such a way that the board remains in that exact position - the same position it was in before you got aboard. You want the surfboard to be in exactly the same position in the water, just a bit down because now your weight is on the board.

To find out what the "balance point" of your board is, climb aboard the surfboard as it is lying on the water and evaluate whether or not the board is at the same level it was before you got on. If the nose of the board dips down into the water ("pearling"), then it will not move smoothly through the water. If the nose lifts too high out of the water because of too much weight on the back ("corking"), then you will not be able to catch a wave. When you think you've found the balance point of your board, use a bit of wax or a marker to mark the spot on your board where your chin lies. This mark will be a reference point you can use so that every time you climb on the board you will know where you should be lying for the best balance.

Take time to become familiar with the feeling of being on the surfboard in the water, before you even attempt to stand up on it. Lie face down on the board and use your arms to paddle through the water. Don't paddle with both of your arms at the same time, because the surfboard's movements will be erratic and you won't be able to maintain a steady speed as you move through the water. Use a crawl stroke to paddle - one arm first, and then the other arm. Paddling with this method will give you constant speed and fluid motion.

After you are comfortable with paddling on the surfboard, you should get comfortable sitting on the board. The first time you try, you may find that the board is wobbly and unstable. Be patient and keep calm, and move as little as possible. The quieter and calmer you can be, the less movement you will make on the board and the easier it will be to sit astride the board without it tipping over. Learning to be calm while simply sitting on the board will help you learn to control your movements and remain calm while standing and surfing.

Standing on a surfboard may seem like a daunting next step, but remember to remain calm and move slowly and fluidly so the board remains flat and moves as little as possible. Lie face down on your chest with your head up, looking forward. Press your palms downward on the board, lifting your upper body, while you slide your feet forward and up underneath your body, aligning them along the stringer down the middle of the surfboard. Be sure your body weight is centered on the stringer, and lift your body in one fluid movement. Be sure to keep your body low, with your knees slightly bent, your feet as far apart as your shoulders. Grip the surfboard with your feet, always look up and forward, and keep your hands a little higher than your waist.

Practice all of these movements for hours, and have someone watch you to give you feedback. You can even practice by laying the surfboard on your bed or on the beach, and practice making calm, smooth movements. The more you can control your movements while the board is still, the better you will be able to control them once the board is in the water.

When you feel comfortable with the surfboard you will know it - you will feel like the board is a part of your body and you are "one" with the surfboard. Then, and only then, should you head out to the surf to try to catch a wave. Paddle your board out beyond the breakers, then turn the board around facing the beach, and look over your shoulder to watch for the perfect wave. Beginning surfers should always go surfing with a buddy, not only because it is safer but also because it is more enjoyable to have someone to share the experience with. Beginners should wear a vest or t-shirt for protection, and perhaps even a helmet. When you fall off your surfboard, stay underwater for a moment to get your bearings before coming back to the surface. Come up facing oncoming breakers, and look for your surfboard right away. Beginning surfers should always tie their surfboards to their leg with a leg rope or leash. Before getting back on the board, be sure you are calm and in control.

The most important thing to remember about surfing is not to try to advance too quickly. Like every physical sport, surfing requires dedication, patience, and practice, practice, practice. Don't expect to be King of the Beach right off the bat. Take your time, take your falls, and then take your wave! You'll be hanging ten in no time.