A Quick Tour Of Paris - North-Central Paris

I love touring Paris so much that I am doing a series on both the well known and the rarely visited tourist attractions of different sectors of the city, combining neighboring arrondissements. This short article visits the ninth to twelfth districts of north-central Paris. Please join me on this tour. You are sure to discover sights that you'll just love.
North-central Paris consists of four bustling arrondissements, the ninth to the twelfth. We start in the ninth and work our way east. The Olympia is Paris's oldest music hall and one of the world's most famous. Famous Olympia performers include Édith Piaf, Jacques Brel, and Jeff Buckley. The nearby mid Nineteenth Century Folies Bergère has hosted the singer-dancer Joséphine Baker and Maurice Chevalier. The Neo-Baroque Paris Opera seats 2200 opera fans and its stage accommodates 450 artists. Visit this splendid building with its statues and busts of famous composers. It inspired the French novel The Phantom of the Opera and the famous Broadway musical. Department store fans will appreciate the Nineteenth Century Galeries Lafayette with its beautiful Art Nouveau staircases. Down the street is the Printemps with a great Art Deco stained-glass cupola.

Pigalle centers around Place Pigalle, bordering the ninth and the eighteenth districts. Largely a red-light district its famous nightclubs include the Moulin Rouge with an imitation red windmill on the roof and a turn-of-the-century décor. This club inspired 1952 and 2001 movies, both nominated for the Oscar for Best Picture. The area attracted world-famous artists including Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, and van Gogh.

The tenth arrondissement has recently become trendy. Start your tour at the three-mile long Canal Saint-Martin built for Napoleon Bonaparte. This canal starred in the 1938 movie Hôtel du Nord and the 2001 movie Amélie. The nearby streets are car-free for parts of Saturday and all day Sunday. The Gare de l'Est (East Station) is one of Paris's largest and oldest railway stations, a magnificent building with lovely artwork. The Gare du Nord (North Station) is the busiest station in Europe, and has appeared in several French and American movies.

The eleventh arrondissement has become bohemian and trendy with a lot of night life. It is home to many restaurants, cafés, boutiques, and galleries. The Winter Circus was built over 150 years ago. This unique twenty-sided building served as a circus, a concert hall and an early Parisian cinema. It has been featured in a famous Seurat painting, a celebrated Avedon fashion photograph, and the 1950s movie "Trapeze".

The twelfth arrondissement completes our tour. The Bastille, built to defend Paris, became a prison mostly for political prisoners. On July 14, 1789 it contained only seven inmates. A nearby park displays one tower's. The Bastille square often hosts political demonstrations, and the area hums at night. The Bastille Opera was designed to replace the old Paris Opera but evidently Paris can support two (actually more) opera houses.

The Promenade Plantée is a long elevated park built on an abandoned railway viaduct. It includes pedestrian and cyclist routes and arcades. The Paris-Bercy All Sports Palace hosts many sports and pop concerts seating up to eighteen thousand spectators.

The Vincennes Woods is an English-garden type park almost three times as big as New York's Central Park. Once a royal hunting preserve, it became public in 1860. Don't miss the Château de Vincennes where the famous spy Mata-Hari was executed and served as the military headquarters for the unsuccessful defense of France against the German invasion of 1940. The Bois de Vincennes is also home to a small zoo and four lakes.

By Levi Reiss
Published: 4/1/2008
 
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