Dark Times: Recession Fears Stalk Milan Catwalk

Even the sight of a continuously beaming David Beckham, resplendent in a midnight-blue suit in the front row at the Emporio Armani show yesterday, did little to lift the bleak mood at the Milan catwalk shows.

The menswear collections, which began at the weekend, mark the beginning of the two-month international marathon - the first since the economic crisis has taken hold.

The sober mood was unsurprising as designers struggle with how to sell luxury goods at a time of gloom. What's more, they are presenting their vision for autumn, when the recession could be worse.

Beckham's presence at the Emporio show reflected the business-minded approach of Giorgio Armani to the current economic situation. He is hoping that the brief loan of Beckham to his cheaper line, added to the fact that Victoria Beckham is the current face of Emporio Armani underwear, will help the label's appeal.

Away from the catwalk the mood was subdued; flashy parties were off the agenda.

This pessimistic outlook was echoed on the catwalk with designers opting for safe collections. Creative exuberance was replaced with a back to basics approach. At Burberry, whose sales figures so far have indicated that it is well-placed to ride out the recession, the collection was downbeat in feel and was described by creative director Christopher Bailey as "modern nostalgia".