Country Diary: Dorset

Slanting autumn sunshine would have been appropriate, but as we clambered down from the community bus at Broad Oak orchard, wind and rain knocked us back. We were going to join the seasonal revelers on a weekend given to celebration of local produce - fruit, vegetables, Somerset cheddar, Dorset blue vinny and, of course, cider. The tent flaps ran with water and the going underfoot was soggy, but we were greeted cheerfully and told that the village may not have a pub or a church, but does have a community orchard, half an acre in size, a haven for wildlife, and its grass is rich with wildflowers. The fruit trees vary in age, some, (like the Belle de Boskoop apple tree) are ancient and partially fallen but still fruiting.

Broad Oak orchard was given to the Dorset wildlife trust in 1979, and welcomes all comers to pick fruit, relax, or take part in a communal festivity like this weekend's or even the winter wassail that discourages evil spirits from spoiling the crop.

Sadly, this past summer's rain has come at the wrong time for the plum crop, and the jam factory was having to lay off staff. But nevertheless the day's event was determined to be cheerful. Folk fiddler and guitarist, crouching under canvas, provided lively accompaniment and contributed to the sense of plenty and goodwill, as Dorset apple cake was liberally dispensed and a man clothed from head to foot in waterproofs crushed apples to demonstrate the cider-maker's art. That same evening, as part of another event (this one under cover and in a school hall) we saw a persuasive film made to demonstrate the merits of local produce: personal dealing between producer and consumer, low food miles and pride in native varieties and regional tradition. Before the film, we savored rich and varied flavors as we tried a slice carved from a magnificent side of beef, bit into a James Grieve apple, and sipped a glass of Pomona. At the interval there was home-made blackberry and apple ice-cream.