Dior Glamour Defies Economic Woes

The tiny stumble by the model at the end was the only suggestion of anything other than utter confidence at the Christian Dior show in Paris, which opened the couture fashion week.

And in truth, the perilous lurch probably had more to do with her outfit - a corset-like top half covered in crystals worn with an enormous tulle skirt which folded around her in giant pleats, giving her the appearance of a winged sea creature - than anything as distasteful as uncertainty. In yesterday's show, pleats were enormous, and often covered in crystals; jackets were stiffened with giant folds and peplums. And why bother with a belt when you can wrap a corset around your waist, like Marie Antoinette? What's that you said, there's an economic downturn?

But it wasn't the extravagance of the most complex outfits that suggested an impermeability to the economic climate, but rather the wearability of the simpler ones. Under the aegis of creative director John Galliano, Dior couture has never shied away from showiness and flamboyance. But amid the pleats and the peplums, and an unfortunate section of ballgowns that looked like they were made for someone working as Cinderella at Disneyland Paris, there were dresses that were truly wearable.

The amount of skin on show was also notable, which, combined with backlacing, gave the collection a sexiness couture often lacks, suggesting the label is trying to appeal to younger customers.

And perhaps a new political customer. Although Carla Bruni-Sarkozy was a no-show, there was a purple suit reminiscent of the dress of the same color Michelle Obama wore in St Paul, Minnesota, last month. Fashion houses may not be interested in obeying the economy, but political predictions seem to be more acceptable.