Lagerfeld's Nod Nudges Dior Homme Out of the Doldrums

Only in a certain context can the arrival of Karl Lagerfeld in the front row of a fashion show cause more excitement than that of the rapper Kanye West. Yesterday at the Dior Homme show in Paris, which closed the menswear shows for another season, Lagerfeld could barely walk to his seat for paparazzi and people waving phone cameras.

On the other hand, West, who has attended most shows this season gathering ideas for his fashion line, strolled in without a request for an autograph.

Lagerfeld's presence was significant - for Dior Homme, the menswear division of Christian Dior, and the label's president, Sidney Toledano, and the firm's key shareholder, Bernard Arnault. It suggested that this small but until recently hugely influential label might now be emerging from the doldrums.

Thanks to its one-time creative director Hedi Slimane, Dior Homme had made designer menswear cool as opposed to something for playboys. Last year Slimane was replaced by Kris van Assche, whose first two collections were clearly trying to step out of the former's shadow. But yesterday, Van Assche seemed to be moving forward. The black suits, slashed white shirts and metallic look - copper jackets, gold details - were reminiscent of Slimane's style - though Van Assche's beloved billowing trousers were there too.

Lagerfeld, wearing what looked like a Dior Homme outfit from the Slimane era, gave what appeared to be a smile.

For next summer, it looks as if the company has bought itself some time, and perhaps brought back its most dedicated customer.