Stoning the Devil

To the untrained eye al-jamrah al-aqabah al-kubra is just a concrete wall about 30 meters long and 18 metres high. Closer inspection reveals that it is a very particular wall, surrounded by CCTV cameras and a carefully directed one-way human traffic system.

This wall, as with the two others in Mina - al-Jamrah al-Wusta and al-jamrah al-Sughra - forms part of the stoning the devil ritual, when Muslim pilgrims re-enact Abraham's rejection of Satan. According to Islamic tradition the prophet was on his way to sacrifice his son Ismail at God's request when he was tempted by the devil on three occasions. Each time the prophet threw stones at Satan to drive him away.

Late last night millions of Muslims arrived in Muzdalifah, near Mina, to collect the requisite 70 pebbles to throw at the walls for the ritual, which is carried out on three days.

As part of the hajj, pilgrims must stay overnight in the area, which was a wilderness 10 years ago. Most sleep under the stars in tents or sleeping bags. Some, still weary from the previous day's excursions and supplications in the searing heat of Arafat, prefer to rent apartments. There have been other changes too. Muzdalifah now has mobile reception and washrooms. There are also floodlights to help pilgrims find their pebbles, but there were plenty of torches being used.

"You have to be careful what you pick up," said Zahed, a South African who had performed hajj on five occasions. "You might get your hands on something nasty, like sheep or goat's droppings."

The ritual, carried out after sunrise today, is one of the most cathartic and vigorous of the hajj, allowing Muslims to vent their anger and disgust at Satan. "People really get into it," added Zahed. "They think there is actually a devil built inside the wall and they want to see it bleed and crack."

This zeal also makes the ritual one of the most dangerous of the pilgrimage, with incidents ranging from minor abrasions to death.

Mindful of earlier tragedies, the Saudi authorities have introduced human traffic calming measures. In 2006 at least 345 pilgrims died in a crush during the stone-throwing ritual and hundreds were injured.

Authorities also - although this has never been confirmed by religious scholars - return the pebbles to Muzdalifah. First, to ensure the pilgrims avoid injury from rogue stones and second, to ensure there are enough stones for next year's hajj.

Tomorrow and Friday pilgrims will return to Mina to complete the ritual, when they will start with the smallest pillar, throwing seven pebbles at it while reciting: "Allah Akbar" (God is great), before moving on to the medium pillar and throwing another seven pebbles while saying the same words. These actions are repeated at the largest pillar.