Couture Clash Between Paris and Rome

The haute couture catwalk shows began in Paris yesterday, and at first glance, the stage appeared to be set as usual. At the opening shows, by Anne Valerie Hash, Christophe Josse and Felip Oliveira Baptista, there were delicate gilt chairs, antique crystal champagne flutes, and, of course, insanely beautiful and absurdly expensive frocks. This, after all, is the most expensive, exclusive, and prestigious tier of fashion.

But beneath the civilised surface, the real story of this week is a gladiatorial battle between two would-be kings of couture, in which last night's Dior show marked the first punch. The confrontation is between the modern interpretation of couture, represented by the flamboyant, tattooed John Galliano for Christian Dior, versus the traditional incarnation, as embodied by the smooth, perma-tanned Valentino.

The rivals are staging spectacular anniversary events for 1,000 guests apiece. Last night Dior celebrated its 60th anniversary, and Galliano's decade-long tenure at the label, by moving its show from its usual home in a marquee in the Bois de Boulogne to the rather more decadent setting of the Orangerie at Versailles. On Saturday, Valentino steps into the spotlight with a weekend-long extravaganza in Rome.

Christian Dior's show broadcast the scope of its ambition by being held on the longest catwalk of any fashion show in history. Guests were instructed to dress "with extreme elegance", and post-show festivities in the Versailles gardens were expected to continue long into the night. The celebratory mood was tempered by the dedication of the blockbuster show to Steven Robinson, Galliano's longtime right-hand man, who died suddenly in Paris in April at the age of 38. Robinson, credited as the "realizer" of Galliano's fantastical ideas, had worked closely with Galliano for 19 years.

Galliano's stature as a couturier is reflected in his starring role in the V&A's forthcoming exhibition, The Golden Age of Couture, which opens in September. Galliano is co-host, with Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman, of the gala dinner being held to celebrate the exhibition. In just four days' time, however, the Italian designer Valentino will rival Galliano's bid to be the week's most glamorous host when he celebrates 45 years in fashion with a three-day program of catwalk shows, retrospective exhibitions, lavish dinners and fabulous parties. To mark the occasion, Valentino has this week moved his show back from Paris to his adopted city of Rome, where he is to be honored by the city's mayor and by Italy's arts and culture minister.

Valentino was born in Lombardy, but began his career in Rome and has described the city as "the only place in which I feel genuinely at home". While Galliano's couture catwalks are flights of theatrical fantasy, Valentino's trademark is classic elegance. He was the favorite couturier of Jackie Kennedy, later Onassis, for more than 30 years, and dressed Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn in their heydays. His decision to stage the celebration on his 45th anniversary, rather than waiting for the more conventional half-century, has led to rumors that the designer, who is 74, will announce his retirement. However, the recent appointment of Dante D'Angelo, formerly of the Versace group, as business director at the Valentino company suggests the anniversary could be the jumping-off point for an expansion rather than a bowing out. Business at Valentino is healthy: the most recent figures showed profits on core womenswear and accessories up by over 20%.

This week also marks the return to the catwalk of two talented British designers, Romeo Gigli and Roland Mouret. Romeo Gigli has designed his first collection in three years, for the Rebecca Brown label. Roland Mouret, creator of the hourglass-shaped Galaxy dress, the most sought-after garment of 2005, left his company that year after a falling-out with his backers, giving up the right to use his own name. His comeback collection, now backed by Spice Girls svengali Simon Fuller, will be unveiled under the name RM.