Chic at Its Best in New Chanel Collection

The atmosphere at yesterday's Chanel show in Paris's Grand Palais could almost be compared to that at a major indoor sports event, such is the fervour of the label's fans. Of course the primary difference is that at a Chanel show the audience all support the same team, and oversized pointy hands are most certainly banned.

Yesterday's stage set was pleasingly gimmicky - in the middle of the catwalk was built a house with translucent windows, around which the models walked. At the end of the show, ta da, the windows slid open to reveal rails, suit bags and white-robed dressers. Unbeknown to the audience, this had been the backstage area where the models had been changing.

The collection, which was largely cream and black with gold accessories, did nod a little to current trends, including some futuristic-looking shoes which were made of PVC and patent with gold detailing thrown in for good measure. For the most part, it was immaculately cut cream tweed jackets with gold buttons and stacks of chunky gold bangles piled high up the arms, designed to make the wearer look wealthy.

Best of all were the little black dresses. Flirty and baby-doll in style, overlaid with chiffon to create a puff of volume around the hem, they were playful but timeless French chic at its very best.

Next season's quilted bags are either covered in Chanel badges or are in see-through PVC. Perhaps Karl Lagerfeld has a strong sense of semiotics after all.