Gaultier Celebrates 30 Years

Like an elderly aunt who can't resist reminiscing about her glorious debutante days, Paris just loves to go on about its fashion past. The Balenciaga retrospective exhibition is still selling out daily and Chanel recently marked the anniversary of one of its handbags, fortuitously allowing them to reissue a version of it at several times more than its original price.

And who can blame them when the present fashion industry is so besotted with celebrities and fast money-spinners?

The disappointing Balenciaga show was delayed for more than an hour for Janet Jackson. When an especially snooty French brand kowtows to an American pop star currently flogging diet tips to the masses, you know the tides are turning.

Maybe Jean Paul Gaultier got it right with his 30th anniversary collection, although you wouldn't have guessed it. His sportswear section - one element no fashion show should attempt - featured sports jackets elongated into dresses and bags, almost all with a big embroidered 30. This wasn't a collection, it was a souvenir show. Or maybe it is the future of fashion because there is one demographic who will love these clothes: the Wags.

Some believe that fashion shows are just there to flog perfume as they give the brand glamour. This has probably been truer of the Dior show than any other, with its impractical but fabulous outfits. But designer John Galliano seems to have tired of this rigamarole and the clothes have been becoming simpler as though he intends people to buy them.

Yesterday's collection veered towards frumpy with the skirt suits, but the dresses with complex knotting were beautiful. Most impressive of all, he didn't hold the show for Janet Jackson (again) who turned up halfway through and was forced to stand at the back with her supersized bodyguard. A fashion show snubbing a celebrity? How very old-fashioned.